Geology topics

Research about Fire Island

Source-linked reports with geographic coverage including Fire Island.

At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2024

Implications for the resilience of modern coastal systems derived from mesoscale barrier dynamics at Fire Island, New York

Understanding the response of coastal barriers to future changes in rates of sea level rise, sediment availability, and storm intensity/frequency is essential for coastal planning, including socioeconomic and ecological management. Identifying drivers of past changes in barrier morphology, as well as barrier sensitivity to these forces, is necessary to accomplish this. Using remote sensing, field, and laboratory analyses, we reconstruct the mesoscale (decades–centuries) evolution of central Fire Island, a portion of a 50 km barrier island fronting Long Island, New York, USA. We find that the configuration of the modern beach and foredune at Fire Island is radically different from the system's relict morphostratigraphy. Central Fire Island is comprised of at least three formerly inlet-divided rotational barriers with distinct subaerial beach and dune–ridge systems that were active prior to the mid-19th century. Varying morphologic states reflected in the relict barriers (e.g., progradational and transgressive) contrast with the modern barrier, which is dominated by a tall and nearly continuous foredune and is relatively static, except for erosion and drowning of its fringing marsh. We suggest that this state shift indicates a transition from a regime dominated by inlet-mediated gradients in alongshore sediment availability to one where human impacts exerted greater influence on island evolution from the late 19th century onward. The retention of some geomorphic capital in Fire Island's relict subaerial features combined with its static nature renders the barrier increasingly susceptible to narrowing and passive submergence. This may lead to an abrupt geomorphic state shift in the future, a veiled vulnerability that may also exist in other stabilized barriers.

New York↗

USGS2023

Twenty-year record of salt marsh elevation dynamics in response to sea-level rise and storm-driven barrier island geomorphic processes: Fire Island, New York, USA

Twenty years of surface elevation table and marker horizon monitoring at three sites along the Fire Island (New York, USA) barrier island indicates that rates of marsh surface elevation change (Watch Hill, 4.4 mm year −1 ; Hospital Point, 3.5 mm year −1 ; Great Gun, − 0.3 mm year −1 ) were lower than the rate of monthly mean sea-level rise during the 2002–2022 monitoring period (5.1 mm year −1 , NOAA Sandy Hook, NJ, water level station). The Great Gun monitoring site, with an elevation deficit relative to sea-level rise, shallow subsidence (surface accretion > marsh elevation rate), low elevation capital, prolonged marsh surface flooding, and declining vegetation cover, displays characteristics common to deteriorating marshes. The submergence trend was not as evident at the other monitoring sites, but with low tidal range (0.4 m) and projections of accelerated sea-level rise, sustainability is questioned if marsh elevation change continues to lag behind the local rate of relative sea-level rise. Hurricane Sandy occurred during the monitoring period (October 2012), creating a new inlet located about 300 m from one of the monitoring sites. Surprisingly, no immediate signals of deposition or erosion were noted from the marker horizon sampling. Overwash sand deposits on the marsh surface were extensive along Fire Island, although not reaching the monitoring sites, and will likely provide opportunities for future salt marsh growth, as will the flood-tide delta created by the inlet. Projecting the future of barrier island salt marshes under a regime of accelerated sea-level rise and episodic storms requires knowledge of marsh elevation and accretion processes and geomorphic dynamics.

New York↗

USGS2023

Wave asymmetry impacts on sediment processes at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York

Effects of wave asymmetry on sediment processes and coastal evolution were investigated using a field data set and a numerical model. Field observations at the nearshore of Fire Island, New York revealed sediment fluxes during various wave energy levels. The preliminary results indicate a strong correlation between the wave asymmetry and the onshore bedload fluxes. The model results captured the observed hydrodynamics and the sediment processes reasonably well. Ongoing work involves in-depth analysis of the model performance, followed by the evaluation of the nearshore morphodynamics at the island and shelf scales.

New York↗

USGS2022

Integrating Bayesian networks to forecast sea-level rise impacts on barrier island characteristics and habitat availability

Evaluation of sea-level rise (SLR) impacts on coastal landforms and habitats is a persistent need for informing coastal planning and management, including policy decisions, particularly those that balance human interests and habitat protection throughout the coastal zone. Bayesian networks (BNs) are used to model barrier island change under different SLR scenarios that are relevant to management and policy decisions. BNs utilized here include a shoreline change model and two models of barrier island biogeomorphological evolution at different scales (50 and 5 m). These BNs were then linked to another BN to predict habitat availability for piping plovers ( Charadrius melodus ), a threatened shorebird reliant on beach habitats. We evaluated the performance of the two linked geomorphology BNs and further examined error rates by generating hindcasts of barrier island geomorphology and habitat availability for 2014 conditions. Geomorphology hindcasts revealed that model error declined with a greater number of known inputs, with error rates reaching 55% when multiple outputs were hindcast simultaneously. We also found that, although error in predictions of piping plover nest presence/absence increased when outputs from the geomorphology BNs were used as inputs in the piping plover habitat BN, the maximum error rate for piping plover habitat suitability in the fully-linked BNs was only 30%. Our findings suggest this approach may be useful for guiding scenario-based evaluations where known inputs can be used to constrain variables that produce higher uncertainty for morphological predictions. Overall, the approach demonstrates a way to assimilate data and model structures with uncertainty to produce forecasts to inform coastal planning and management.

New York↗

USGS2022

Predicted sea-level rise-driven biogeomorphological changes on Fire Island, New York: Implications for people and plovers

Forecasting biogeomorphological conditions for barrier islands is critical for informing sea-level rise (SLR) planning, including management of coastal development and ecosystems. We combined five probabilistic models to predict SLR-driven changes and their implications on Fire Island, New York, by 2050. We predicted barrier island biogeomorphological conditions, dynamic landcover response, piping plover ( Charadrius melodus ) habitat availability, and probability of storm overwash under three scenarios of shoreline change (SLC) and compared results to observed 2014/2015 conditions. Scenarios assumed increasing rates of mean SLC from 0 to 4.71 m erosion per year. We observed uncertainty in several morphological predictions (e.g., beach width, dune height), suggesting decreasing confidence that Fire Island will evolve in response to SLR as it has in the past. Where most likely conditions could be determined, models predicted that Fire Island would become flatter, narrower, and more overwash-prone with increasing rates of SLC. Beach ecosystems were predicted to respond dynamically to SLR and migrate with the shoreline, while marshes lost the most area of any landcover type compared to 2014/2015 conditions. Such morphological changes may lead to increased flooding or breaching with coastal storms. However—although modest declines in piping plover habitat were observed with SLC—the dynamic response of beaches, flatter topography, and increased likelihood of overwash suggest storms could promote suitable conditions for nesting piping plovers above what our geomorphology models predict. Therefore, Fire Island may offer a conservation opportunity for coastal species that rely on early successional beach environments if natural overwash processes are encouraged.

New York↗

USGS2022

Modeling of barrier breaching during Hurricanes Sandy and Matthew

Physical processes driving barrier island change during storms are important to understand to mitigate coastal hazards and to evaluate conceptual models for barrier evolution. Spatial variations in barrier island topography, landcover characteristics, and nearshore and back-barrier hydrodynamics can yield complex morphological change that requires models of increasing resolution and physical complexity to predict. Using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, we investigated two barrier island breaches that occurred on Fire Island, NY during Hurricane Sandy (2012) and at Matanzas, FL during Hurricane Matthew (2016). The model employed a recently implemented infragravity (IG) wave driver to represent the important effects of IG waves on nearshore water levels and sediment transport. The model simulated breaching and other changes with good skill at both locations, resolving differences in the processes and evolution. The breach simulated at Fire Island was 250 m west of the observed breach, whereas the breach simulated at Matanzas was within 100 m of the observed breach. Implementation of the vegetation module of COAWST to allow three-dimensional drag over dune vegetation at Fire Island improved model skill by decreasing flows across the back-barrier, as opposed to varying bottom roughness that did not positively alter model response. Analysis of breach processes at Matanzas indicated that both far-field and local hydrodynamics influenced breach creation and evolution, including remotely generated waves and surge, but also surge propagation through back-barrier waterways. This work underscores the importance of resolving the complexity of nearshore and back-barrier systems when predicting barrier island change during extreme events.

Florida, New York↗

USGS2020

Selective sediment transport during Hurricane Sandy on Fire Island (New York, USA): Inferences from heavy-mineral assemblages

In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused severe erosion on beaches and dunes of Fire Island (New York, USA). Major shoreline changes occurred with erosional dominance in the upper shoreline and aggradation in the lowermost section of the beach due to the deposition of eroded upper beach and dune sediment. Sand laminations with a high concentration of heavy minerals (“black sand laminations”) were observed in three excavated trenches located on a washover terrace and fan on the east side of Fire Island. The mineralogical composition of these laminations reveals the presence of high quantities of magnetite, ilmenite (as opaque minerals), and garnet (as main translucent mineral). These heavy mineral enriched laminations were formed as waves eroded and transported sand from the primary dune and smaller relict dunes under specific hydrodynamic conditions that promoted grain sorting according to differences in size and specific gravity. Based on the concentrations of certain heavy minerals, the threshold for primarily density-driven sorting probably lies between the specific gravity of a less dense mineral (ilmenite, 4.7) and Garnet almandine (4.3), the most common transparent heavy mineral. The number of laminations and concentrations of heavy minerals vary between trenches on the overwash terrace and appear to be controlled by their distance from sediment sources. The trench with a greatest number of laminations and higher heavy mineral concentrations is located furthest from the main dune but is just 10 m inland of a relict dune that acts as the primary source of sediment of the washover deposit in this trench. A conceptual model for heavy mineral layer deposition is presented based on geomorphological and sedimentological evidences allowing the definition of a density threshold.

New York↗

USGS2019

Morphodynamic modelling of the wilderness breach, Fire Island, New York. Part I: Model set-up and validation

On October 29, 2012, storm surge and large waves produced by Hurricane 13 Sandy resulted in the formation of a breach in eastern Fire Island, NY. The goals of this study 14 are to gain a better understanding of the physical processes that govern breach behavior and 15 to assess whether process-based models can be used to forecast the evolution of future 16 breaches. The Wilderness Breach grew rapidly in size during the first winter following 17 formation. Growth of the breach was accompanied by the formation of a complex of flood 18 shoals inside Great South Bay, a primary channel that flowed through the eastern part of the 19 flood shoals, and an ebb shoal on the ocean side of the breach. From the summer of 2013 20 through late 2015, the breach continued to change and evolve, albeit at a much slower pace 21 than in the first year after formation. A hybrid combination of Delft3D and XBeach models is 22 used to hindcast the morphodynamic evolution of the Wilderness Breach over the first three 23 years after formation. The formation of the breach during Hurricane Sandy is not part of the 24 simulations. Model simulations are initiated with a post-storm topography in which the 25 breach is already present. The models are capable of hindcasting the main morphodynamic 26 changes of the Wilderness Breach. The spatial patterns, as well as the bulk statistics, such as 27 2 breach geometry and sediment volume changes, are reasonably 28 well reproduced by the model. 29 The model sheds light on previously unknown processes of breach evolution, especially 30 regarding sediment transport and flow regimes within the breach complex.

New York↗

USGS2019

Alongshore momentum balance over shoreface-connected ridges, Fire Island, NY

Hydrodynamic and hydrographic data collected on the inner shelf of Fire Island, NY, over a region of shoreface-connected ridges (SFCRs) are used to describe wind-driven circulation over uneven topographies along relatively straight coastlines. The data revealed a predominantly alongshore flow, under westward wind forcing, with localized offshore current veering over the SFCR crests associated with an onshore veering over the adjacent troughs. Momentum balance analysis of the observations revealed that local acceleration, advective acceleration, and bottom stress are balanced by wind stress and regional (>100 km) pressure gradient force. Numerical model results based on simulations of an idealized SFCR bathymetry, as in Warner et al. (2014) but forced with the observed winds, are used to verify the experimentally derived results and constraint inaccuracies in the momentum balance term relationships revealed using the field data. As with previous SFCR studies, our experimental results indicate a current veering over ridge crests. Veering is driven primarily by two processes: cross-shore variation of alongshore advective acceleration which creates cross-shore pressure gradient and drives flow (described as a Bernoulli-like process), and, bottom frictional-torque. A synthesis of the numerical and experimental data revealed that the total pressure gradient force can be considered as the sum of a local and a regional pressure gradient force. The former is correlated with the alongshore advective acceleration that develops over the crest of the ridges resembling a Bernoulli-like pressure-flow relationship. The regional pressure gradient force is related to wind stress with which maintains a strong, negative relationship. The realistic driving force analysis revealed the different contributions of the local and regional scale pressure gradients. Under realistic and variable wind conditions the regional pressure gradients are more important and the influence of the local scale pressure gradient increases as the flow reaches quasi steady-state conditions. A time scale of 6 hours was defined as the temporal scale required for the local pressure gradients to have an effect

New York↗

USGS2019

White-tailed deer movements and space use on Fire Island: A four-year radio-telemetry study 2015-2016 post-Hurricane Sandy assessment

Hurricane Sandy provided a unique opportunity to better understand the movements of Fire Island’s dense white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus borealis) herds. White-tailed deer inhabit all areas of Fire Island National Seashore and their high densities negatively affect native vegetation in several areas of the island, especially as disturbed areas attempt to recover after a catastrophic storm like Hurricane Sandy. Understanding deer movements and space use helps land managers to prioritize white-tailed deer population size and the health and recovery potential of Fire Island’s natural lands according to their management goals. The results of this study will inform Fire Island staff as they prepare to initiate the tasks set forth by the Seashore’s approved Deer Management Plan. We used radio-collars fitted with Very High Frequency (VHF) signal and Global Positioning System (GPS) technology to monitor movements of white-tailed deer for four years after Hurricane Sandy. The greatest movements of Fire Island’s adult female white-tailed deer occurred in spring each year. Home range and core area sizes varied among study areas and years, but suggested hierarchical dominance among Fire Island’s deer populations. Potentially six distinct populations were delineated through analysis of GPS radio-collar data, though these divisions also reflect the concentrated sampling efforts of deer capture. Nearly all deer monitored shared time between natural and nearby built environments. Since Hurricane Sandy, deer movements in Fire Island’s Wilderness are divided by the storm-induced breach. GPS radio-collars provided a wealth of data for analysis of deer movements and space use, and this report is simply a snapshot of the potential information we intend to gain from this study.

New York↗

USGS2018

Sediment data from vibracores collected in 2016 from Fire Island, New York

Researchers from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) conducted a long-term coastal morphologic-change study at Fire Island, New York, prior to and after Hurricane Sandy impacted the area in October 2012. The Fire Island Coastal Change project objectives include understanding the morphologic evolution of the barrier island system on a variety of time scales (months to centuries) and resolving storm-related effects, post-storm beach response, and recovery. In April 2016, scientists from the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center conducted sediment sampling and geophysical surveys on Fire Island to characterize and quantify spatial variability in the subaerial geology with the goal of subsequently integrating onshore geology with other surf zone and nearshore datasets. This report, along with the accompanying USGS data release , serves as an archive of sediment data from 14 vibracores collected on April 10 and 11, 2016 (USGS Field Activity Number 2016–322–FA ), along 6 transects that extend from the upper to lower subaerial shoreface at Fire Island. Sedimentologic and stratigraphic metrics (for example, sediment texture or unit thicknesses) derived from these data can be used to assess spatial and temporal trends and may aid in understanding beach evolution. Data products include sample location tables, descriptive core logs, core photographs, results of sediment grain-size analyses, and geographic information system data files with accompanying formal Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata.

New York↗

USGS2018

Ground penetrating radar and differential global positioning system data collected in April 2016 from Fire Island, New York

Researchers from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) conducted a long-term coastal morphologic-change study at Fire Island, New York, prior to and after Hurricane Sandy impacted the area in October 2012. The Fire Island Coastal Change project objectives include understanding the morphologic evolution of the barrier island system on a variety of time scales (months to centuries) and resolving storm-related impacts, post-storm beach response, and recovery. In April 2016, scientists from the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center conducted geophysical and sediment sampling surveys on Fire Island to characterize and quantify spatial variability in the subaerial geology with the goal of subsequently integrating onshore geology with other surf zone and nearshore datasets. This report, along with the associated USGS data release , serves as an archive of ground penetrating radar (GPR) and post-processed differential global positioning system (DGPS) data collected from beach and back-barrier environments on Fire Island, April 6–13, 2016 (USGS Field Activity Number 2016-322-FA). Data products, including unprocessed GPR trace data, processed DGPS data, elevation-corrected subsurface profile images, geographic information system files, and accompanying Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata are available for download.

New York↗

USGS2018

Characterizing storm response and recovery using the beach change envelope: Fire Island, New York

Hurricane Sandy at Fire Island, New York presented unique challenges in the quantification of storm impacts using traditional metrics of coastal change, wherein measured changes (shoreline, dune crest, and volume change) did not fully reflect the substantial changes in sediment redistribution following the storm. We used a time series of beach profile data at Fire Island, New York to define a new contour-based morphologic change metric, the Beach Change Envelope (BCE). The BCE quantifies changes to the upper portion of the beach likely to sustain measurable impacts from storm waves and capture a variety of storm and post-storm beach states. We evaluated the ability of the BCE to characterize cycles of beach change by relating it to a conceptual beach recovery regime, and demonstrated that BCE width and BCE height from the profile time series correlate well with established stages of recovery. We also investigated additional applications of this metric to capture impacts from storms and human modification by applying it to several post-storm historical datasets in which impacts varied considerably; Nor'Ida (2009), Hurricane Irene (2011), Hurricane Sandy (2012), and a 2009 community replenishment. In each case, the BCE captured distinctive upper beach morphologic change characteristic of these different beach building and erosional events. Analysis of the beach state at multiple profile locations showed spatial trends in recovery consistent with recent morphologic island evolution, which other studies have linked with sediment availability and the geologic framework. Ultimately we demonstrate a new way of more effectively characterizing beach response and recovery cycles to evaluate change along sandy coasts.

New York↗

USGS2018

Quantifying effects of deer browsing on vegetation establishment, growth and development in large-extent overwash fans

Hurricane Sandy provided a unique opportunity to better understand the potential effects of white-tailed deer ( Odocoileus virginianus borealis ) on recovering vegetation in areas overwashed by Hurricane Sandy in the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness Area. White-tailed deer are the dominant herbivore on Fire Island and they are known to decrease plant diversity, limit reproduction and growth of some plant species, and facilitate growth and expansion of non-native species through selective browsing. Deer also negatively affect the federally-threatened seabeach amaranth plants along the island’s beaches. Deer impacts to forest understory and regeneration have been documented in Fire Island’s Sunken Forest for decades, though their impacts to recovering dune vegetation are less understood and could restrict the resilience and recovery of primary dunes. Through use of several vegetation assessment methods, including point intercept and paired permanent exclosures, and deer monitoring with trail cameras, we documented high variability in among-overwash species richness, vegetation cover, and local deer abundance. We observed 29 vegetation species among overwash fans between 2015 and 2016. Greater vegetation cover was observed in northern (i.e., inland) areas of all overwash fans, and greater cover and species richness were documented in fenced permanent plots than in control plots. The greatest effect of deer browsing to recovering dune vegetation was in total vegetation cover, which was significantly greater in fenced permanent plots. Any amaranth plants left open (i.e., un-exclosed) were often heavily browsed and experienced early onset mortality without reproducing. Since Hurricane Sandy, total vegetation cover in overwash fans has significantly increased each year, despite deer activity and a regional drought in 2016. While deer graze and browse vegetation in overwash fans, deer and humans trample vegetation in some overwash fans and separating effects of each is not possible from exclusion studies alone. Two overwash fans have been consistently impacted by coastal disturbances since Hurricane Sandy, further complicating their recoveries. Monitoring of dune vegetation should continue as communities transition from predominantly grasses to shrubs and forbs to assess effects of deer as palatability of vegetation improves.

New York↗

USGS2017

Persistent shoreline shape induced from offshore geologic framework: Effects of shoreface connected ridges

Mechanisms relating offshore geologic framework to shoreline evolution are determined through geologic investigations, oceanographic deployments, and numerical modeling. Analysis of shoreline positions from the past 50 years along Fire Island, New York, a 50 km long barrier island, demonstrates a persistent undulating shape along the western half of the island. The shelf offshore of these persistent undulations is characterized with shoreface-connected sand ridges (SFCR) of a similar alongshore length scale, leading to a hypothesis that the ridges control the shoreline shape through the modification of flow. To evaluate this, a hydrodynamic model was configured to start with the US East Coast and scale down to resolve the Fire Island nearshore. The model was validated using observations along western Fire Island and buoy data, and used to compute waves, currents and sediment fluxes. To isolate the influence of the SFCR on the generation of the persistent shoreline shape, simulations were performed with a linearized nearshore bathymetry to remove alongshore transport gradients associated with shoreline shape. The model accurately predicts the scale and variation of the alongshore transport that would generate the persistent shoreline undulations. In one location, however, the ridge crest connects to the nearshore and leads to an offshore-directed transport that produces a difference in the shoreline shape. This qualitatively supports the hypothesized effect of cross-shore fluxes on coastal evolution. Alongshore flows in the nearshore during a representative storm are driven by wave breaking, vortex force, advection and pressure gradient, all of which are affected by the SFCR.

New York↗

USGS2017

Morphologic evolution of the wilderness area breach at Fire Island, New York—2012–15

Introduction Hurricane Sandy, which made landfall on October 29, 2012, near Atlantic City, New Jersey, had a significant impact on the coastal system along the south shore of Long Island, New York. A record significant wave height of 9.6 meters (m) was measured at wave buoy 44025 , approximately 48 kilometers offshore of Fire Island, New York. Surge and runup during the storm resulted in extensive beach and dune erosion and breaching of the Fire Island barrier island system at two locations, including a breach that formed within the Otis Pike Fire Island High Dune Wilderness area on the eastern side of Fire Island. The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) has a long history of conducting morphologic change and processes research at Fire Island. One of the primary objectives of the current research effort is to understand the morphologic evolution of the barrier system on a variety of time scales (from storm scale to decade(s) to century). A number of studies that support the project objectives have been published. Prior to Hurricane Sandy, however, little information was available on specific storm-driven change in this region. The USGS received Hurricane Sandy supplemental funding (project GS2–2B: Linking Coastal Processes and Vulnerability, Fire Island, New York, Regional Study) to enhance existing research efforts at Fire Island. The existing research was greatly expanded to include inner continental shelf mapping and investigations of processes of inner shelf sediment transport; beach and dune response and recovery; and observation, analysis, and modeling of the newly formed breach in the Otis Pike High Dune Wilderness area, herein referred to as the wilderness breach. The breach formed at the site of Old Inlet, which was open from 1763 to 1825. The location of the initial island breaching does not directly correspond with topographic lows of the dunes, but instead the breach formed in the location of a cross-island boardwalk that was destroyed during Hurricane Sandy. From 2013 to November 2015, bathymetric data were collected by the USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center during three surveys of the breach channel and tidal shoals, and shoreline positions on each side of the breach (also collected by the National Park Service). Additionally, pre-storm topography/bathymetry EAARL–B light detection and ranging (lidar) data were collected by the USGS the day prior to Hurricane Sandy’s landfall. These data serve as a baseline for change analyses during four subsequent periods: June 2013, June 2014, October 2014, and May 2015. The June 2013 single-beam bathymetry data were collected in collaboration with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), using the Lighter Amphibious Resupply Cargo (LARC) vessel, and included the ebb shoal and breach channel. The USGS collected and processed the three additional bathymetric datasets using personal watercraft equipped with single-beam echo sounders and backpack Global Positioning System (GPS) over shallow flood shoals. Eastern and western breach shorelines were surveyed weekly to monthly beginning on November 6, 2012 (by the National Park Service [NPS], and USGS St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center), with measurements made every few weeks for the first year and every few months after October 2013. The NPS and researchers from Stony Brook University monitored the breach by collecting field data of the breach channel bathymetry, conducting aerial photographic overflights, and performing water-quality analyses (see http://po.msrc.sunysb.edu/GSB/ ). The aerial photography collected and rectified by Stony Brook University is used extensively in our morphologic change description to examine changes to breach shorelines (supplementing shoreline data collected in the field), channel width, and orientation. Due to the uncertainties and the variation in survey methods, a rigorous quantitative analysis was not performed. However, average calculations of various breach metrics allow a qualitative analysis of breach development and evolution. This report presents an overview of the data collected and a summary discussion of the observed changes to the breach system and the seasonal wave climatology associated with the breach morphodynamic response.

New York↗

USGS2017

Coastal bathymetry data collected in May 2015 from Fire Island, New York—Wilderness breach and shoreface

Scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center in St. Petersburg, Florida, conducted a bathymetric survey of Fire Island from May 6-20, 2015. The USGS is involved in a post-Hurricane Sandy effort to map and monitor the morphologic evolution of the wilderness breach as a part of the Hurricane Sandy Supplemental Project GS2-2B. During this study, bathymetry data were collected with single-beam echo sounders and Global Positioning Systems, which were mounted to personal watercraft, along the Fire Island shoreface and within the wilderness breach. Additional bathymetry and elevation data were collected using backpack Global Positioning Systems on flood shoals and in shallow channels within the wilderness breach.

New York↗

USGS2017

Nearshore sediment thickness, Fire Island, New York

Investigations of coastal change at Fire Island, New York (N.Y.), sought to characterize sediment budgets and determine geologic framework controls on coastal processes. Nearshore sediment thickness is critical for assessing coastal system sediment availability, but it is largely unquantified due to the difficulty of conducting geological or geophysical surveys across the nearshore. This study used an amphibious vessel to acquire chirp subbottom profiles. These profiles were used to characterize nearshore geology and provide an assessment of nearshore sediment volume. Two resulting sediment-thickness maps are provided: total Holocene sediment thickness and the thickness of the active shoreface. The Holocene sediment section represents deposition above the maximum flooding surface that is related to the most recent marine transgression. The active shoreface section is the uppermost Holocene sediment, which is interpreted to represent the portion of the shoreface thought to contribute to present and future coastal behavior. The sediment distribution patterns correspond to previously defined zones of erosion, accretion, and stability along the island, demonstrating the importance of sediment availability in the coastal response to storms and seasonal variability. The eastern zone has a thin nearshore sediment thickness, except for an ebb-tidal deposit at the wilderness breach caused by Hurricane Sandy. Thicker sediment is found along a central zone that includes shoreface-attached sand ridges, which is consistent with a stable or accretional coastline in this area. The thickest overall Holocene section is found in the western zone of the study, where a thicker lower section of Holocene sediment appears related to the westward migration of Fire Island Inlet over several hundred years.

New York↗