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At least 955 records · Page 53Linked to original sources
USGS2009

Monitoring and modeling shoreline response due to shoreface nourishment on a high-energy coast

Shoreface nourishment can be an efficient technique to feed sediment into the littoral zone without the order of magnitude cost increase incurred by directly nourishing the beach. An erosion hot spot at Ocean Beach in San Francisco, California, USA, threatens valuable public infrastructure as well as safe recreational use of the beach. In an effort to reduce the erosion at this location, a new beneficial reuse plan was implemented in May 2005 for the sediment dredged annually from the main shipping channel at the mouth of San Francisco Bay. From 2005 to 2007, approximately 230,000 m of sand was placed annually at depths between 9 and 14 m, in a location where strong tidal currents and open-ocean waves could potentially feed sediment onto the section of beach experiencing critical erosion. The evolution of the disposal mound and adjacent beach were monitored with 12 multibeam bathymetric surveys, and over 40 high-resolution beach topographic surveys. In addition, sediment transport processes were investigated using sediment grab samples, acoustic Doppler profilers, and two separate models: a cross-shore profile model (UNIBEST-TC) and a coastal area model (Delft3D). The results of the monitoring and modeling demonstrate that the disposal mound may be effective in dissipating wave energy striking this vulnerable stretch of coast with negligible shadowing effects, but a positive shoreline response can only be achieved by placing the sediment in water depths less than 5 m.

California↗
USGS2010

Large-scale coastal change in the Columbia River littoral cell: an overview

This overview introduces large-scale coastal change in the Columbia River littoral cell (CRLC). Covering 165 km of the southwest Washington and northwest Oregon coasts, the littoral cell is made up of wide low-sloping dissipative beaches, broad coastal dunes and barrier plains, three large estuaries, and is bounded by rocky headlands. The beaches and inner shelf are composed of fine-grained sand from the Columbia River and are exposed to a high-energy winter wave climate. Throughout the Holocene, the CRLC has undergone large fluctuations in shoreline change trends, responding to a variety of coastal change drivers, including changing rates of sea-level rise, infrequent, yet catastrophic, co-seismic subsidence events, a large regional sediment supply, inter-annual climatic fluctuations (El Niño cycles), seasonally varying wave climate, and numerous anthropogenic influences. Human influences on the CRLC include construction of over 200 dams in the Columbia River drainage basin, dredging of navigation channels removing sand to upland sites and offshore deep-water sites, and construction of large inlet jetties at the entrances to the Columbia River and Grays Harbor. The construction of these massive entrance jetties at the end of the 19th century has been the dominant driver of coastal change through most of the littoral cell over the last hundred years. Presently, some beaches in the littoral cell are eroding in response to nearshore sediment deficits resulting from a) ebb-jets of the confined entrances pushing the previously large, shallow ebb-tidal deltas offshore into deeper water, and b) waves dispersing the nearshore delta flanks initially onshore and then alongshore away from the jetties. This overview describes 1) the motivation for developing a system-wide understanding of sediment dynamics in the littoral cell at multiple time and space scales, 2) the formation and approach of the Southwest Washington Coastal Erosion Study, and 3) an introduction to the papers in this special issue.

Washington;Oregon↗
USGS2016

Seasonal sediment dynamics shape temperate bedrock reef communities

Mobilized seafloor sediment can impact benthic reef communities through burial, scour, and turbidity. These processes are ubiquitous in coastal oceans and, through their influence on the survival, fitness, and interactions of species, can alter the structure and function of benthic communities. In northern Monterey Bay, California, USA, as much as 30% of the seafloor is buried or exposed seasonally, making this an ideal location to test how subtidal temperate rocky reef communities vary in the presence and absence of chronic sediment-based disturbances. Designated dynamic plots were naturally inundated by sediment in summer (50 to 100% cover) and swept clean in winter, whereas designated stable plots remained free of sediment during our study. Multivariate analyses indicated significant differences in the structure of sessile and mobile communities between dynamic and stable reef habitats. For sessile species, community structure in disturbed plots was less variable in space and time than in stable plots due to the maintenance of an early successional state. In contrast, community structure of mobile species varied more in disturbed plots than in stable plots, reflecting how mobile species distribute in response to sediment dynamics. Some species were found only in these disturbed areas, suggesting that the spatial mosaic of disturbance could increase regional diversity. We discuss how the relative ability of species to tolerate disturbance at different life history stages and their ability to colonize habitat translate into community-level differences among habitats, and how this response varies between mobile and sessile communities.

California↗
USGS2009

Top 10 principles for designing healthy coastal ecosystems like the Salish Sea

Like other coastal zones around the world, the inland sea ecosystem of Washington (USA) and British Columbia (Canada), an area known as the Salish Sea, is changing under pressure from a growing human population, conversion of native forest and shoreline habitat to urban development, toxic contamination of sediments and species, and overharvest of resources. While billions of dollars have been spent trying to restore other coastal ecosystems around the world, there still is no successful model for restoring estuarine or marine ecosystems like the Salish Sea. Despite the lack of a guiding model, major ecological principles do exist that should be applied as people work to design the Salish Sea and other large marine ecosystems for the future. We suggest that the following 10 ecological principles serve as a foundation for educating the public and for designing a healthy Salish Sea and other coastal ecosystems for future generations: (1) Think ecosystem: political boundaries are arbitrary; (2) Account for ecosystem connectivity; (3) Understand the food web; (4) Avoid fragmentation; (5) Respect ecosystem integrity; (6) Support nature's resilience; (7) Value nature: it's money in your pocket; (8) Watch wildlife health; (9) Plan for extremes; and (10) Share the knowledge.

British Columbia, Washington↗
USGS2010

Sampling protocol for post-landfall Deepwater Horizon oil release, Gulf of Mexico, 2010

The protocols and procedures described in this report are designed to be used by U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) field teams for the collection of environmental data and samples in coastal areas affected by the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. This sampling protocol focuses specifically on sampling for water, sediments, benthic invertebrates, and microorganisms (ambient bacterial populations) after shoreline arrival of petroleum-associated product on beach, barrier island, and wetland environments of the Gulf of Mexico coastal states. Deployment to sampling sites, site setup, and sample collection in these environments necessitates modifications to standard USGS sampling procedures in order to address the regulatory, logistical, and legal requirements associated with samples collected in oil-impacted coastal areas. This document, therefore, has been written as an addendum to the USGS National Field Manual for the Collection of Water-Quality Data (NFM) (http://pubs.water.usgs.gov/twri9A/), which provides the basis for training personnel in the use of standard USGS sampling protocols. The topics covered in this Gulf of Mexico oil-spill sampling protocol augment NFM protocols for field-deployment preparations, health and safety precautions, sampling and quality-assurance procedures, and decontamination requirements under potentially hazardous environmental conditions. Documentation procedures and maintenance of sample integrity by use of chain-of-custody procedures also are described in this protocol.

Open-File Report↗
USGS2001

Shallow ground-water quality in an agricultural area of the lower coastal plain of South Carolina, 1997

Ground-water-quality samples were collected from 30 shallow monitoring wells located in agricultural areas of the lower Coastal Plain of South Carolina during the summer of 1997 as part of the U.S. Geological Survey National Water-Quality Assessment Program in the Santee River Basin and Coastal Drainages study unit. The wells were completed in sand to clayey sand sediments of the surficial aquifer and sampled one time for selected field properties, and nutrient, major ion, and pesticide concentrations. This report contains the results of the sampling effort.

South Carolina↗
USGS2014

Temporal changes in lithology and radiochemistry from the back-barrier environments along the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana: March 2012-July 2013

Scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center conducted a time-series collection of shallow sediment cores from the back-barrier environments along the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana from March 2012 through July 2013. The sampling efforts were part of a larger USGS study to evaluate effects on the geomorphology of the Chandeleur Islands following the construction of an artificial sand berm to reduce oil transport onto federally managed lands. The objective of this study was to evaluate the response of the back-barrier tidal and wetland environments to the berm. This report serves as an archive for sedimentological, radiochemical, and microbiological data derived from the sediment cores. Data are available for a time-series of four sampling periods: March 2012; July 2012; September 2012; and July 2013. Downloadable data are available as Excel spreadsheets and as JPEG files. Additional files include: ArcGIS shapefiles of the sampling sites, detailed results of sediment grain size analyses, and formal Federal Geographic Data Committee metadata.

Louisiana↗
USGS1989

Erosion and deterioration of the Isles Dernieres Barrier Island Arc, Louisiana, U.S.A.: 1853 to 1988

Using cartographic and aerial photography data from the years 1853, 1890, 1934, 1956, 1978, 1984, and 1988, shoreline change maps of the Isles Dernieres barrier island arc were constructed. These data were accurately superimposed, using a computer mapping system, which removed projection, datum, scale, and other cartographic inconsistencies. Linear, areal, and perimeter measurements indicate that the Isles Dernieres are suffering rapid rates of coastal erosion, land loss, and breakup. Bayside and gulfside erosion, in combination with sediment shortage and subsidence, have caused the Isles Dernieres to narrow through time. In addition, the core of the barrier island arc does not migrate landward and instead, breaks up in place as a result of inlet breaching and development. This is in contrast to other models of landward barrier island migration during transgression. If these trends continue, the Isles Dernieres will likely evolve into a subaqueous inner-shelf shoal by the early 21st century. Loss of the Isles Dernieres barrier island arc will severely impact the Terrebonne parish estuary, resulting in decreased environmental quality and increased public risk from storms and hurricanes.

Louisiana↗
USGS2006

Sediment and nutrient accumulation within lowland bottomland ecosystems: An example from the Atchafalaya River Basin, Louisiana

Sediment and nutrient deposition, storage, and transformations are important environmental functions of riverine forested wetland ecosystems, yet documentation and interpretation of sedimentation/nutrient processes remain incomplete. Our studies located in the Coastal Plain of southeastern USA, including the Atchafalaya Basin, La. (a distributary of the Mississippi River) serve as example for detailed discussion of sediment and nutrient accumulation in lowland systems. The Atchafalaya Basin is the largest contiguously forested riparian wetland in North America and is incurring high sediment loads and hypoxic zones in backswamp settings. We established several floodplain transects, located to reflect major depositional environments within the Basin, to monitor general and local sediment deposition patterns over a multi-year period. Deposition rate and loss on ignition (LOI) data were collected above artificial markers (clay pads) at multiple stations along each transect. Mean floodplain sedimentation rates ranged from about 2 to 42 mm/yr and mean percent organic material ranged from about 7 to 28 percent. The transects were categorized into statistically different deposition groups based on sedimentation rate; most of these groups could be coherently interpreted based on a suite of parameters that includes hydroperiod (elevation), source(s) of sediment-laden water, hydraulic connectivity, flow stagnation, and location in transect (levee versus backswamp). Low elevatic (long hydroperiod), high hydraulic connectivity to multiple sources of sediment-laden water, and hydraulic damming (flow stagnation) lead to the highest amounts of sediment trapping; the converse in any of these factors may diminish sediment trapping. Based on aerial extent of deposition groups, the study area (about 500 km 2) potentially traps 6.72+109 kg of sediment, annually, of which 12 percent or 8.20.108 kg are organic material. This accumulated sediment contains a coarsely estimated 5% and 27% of the annual nitrogen and phosphorus loads to the Atchafalaya Basin, respectively, and 3.7+108 kg C. Thus, the Atchafalaya Basin plays an important role in sediment storage, including the sequestration of carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus.

Conference Paper↗
USGS2021

Enhanced terrestrial runoff during Oceanic Anoxic Event 2 on the North Carolina Coastal Plain, USA

A global increase in the strength of the hydrologic cycle drove an increase in the flux of terrigenous sediments into the ocean during the Cenomanian–Turonian Oceanic Anoxic Event 2 (OAE2) and was an important mechanism driving nutrient enrichment and thus organic carbon burial. This global change is primarily known from isotopic records, but global average data do not tell us anything about changes at any particular location. Reconstructions of local terrigenous flux can help us understand the role of regional shifts in precipitation in driving these global trends. The proto-North Atlantic basin was one of the epicenters of enhanced organic carbon burial during OAE2, so constraining terrigenous flux is particularly important in this region; however, few local records exist. Here, we present two new OAE2 records from the Atlantic Coastal Plain of North Carolina, USA, recognized with calcareous nannoplankton biostratigraphy and organic carbon isotopes. We use carbon / "> / nitrogen ratios to constrain the relative contribution of marine and terrestrial organic matter; in both cores we find an elevated contribution from vascular plants beginning just before OAE2 and continuing through the event, indicating a locally strengthened hydrologic cycle. Terrigenous flux decreased during the brief change in carbon isotope values known as the Plenus carbon isotope excursion; it then increased and remained elevated through the latter part of OAE2. Total organic carbon (TOC) values reveal relatively low organic carbon burial in the inner shelf, in contrast to black shales known from the open ocean. Organic carbon content on the shelf appears to increase in the offshore direction, highlighting the need for cores from the middle and outer shelf.

North Carolina↗
USGS2003

Continuous-resistivity profiling for coastal ground-water investigations: Three case studies

Continuous-resistivity profiling (CRP) was used at three sites to investigate submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) and to delineate the subsurface saltwater/freshwater interface. At the first site, in Georgetown, South Carolina, CRP was used to locate possible areas of SGD in the Winyah Bay estuary. The data show evidence of SGD in the Pee Dee River, feeding into Winyah Bay, at approximately the location of the forest/marsh boundary. In Waquoit Bay, Massachusetts, CRP was used to further map the extent of SGD already measured by sea floor seepage meters and to delineate the subsurface saltwater/freshwater boundary. The data show evidence for a focused groundwater plume beneath the bay that may extend 350 meters (m) out from the shore. Finally, CRP was used in Orleans, Massachusetts, to verify a groundwater model prediction of freshwater-saturated sediments underlying an area of Cape Cod Bay, just west of Rock Harbor. The data support the prediction of freshwater-saturated sediments beneath the bay. Results from all three sites show the value of CRP in coastal groundwater investigations.

Massachusetts, South Carolina↗
USGS2020

Geometric and material variability influences stress states relevant to coastal permafrost bluff failure

Scientific knowledge and engineering tools for predicting coastal erosion are largely confined to temperate climate zones that are dominated by non-cohesive sediments. The pattern of erosion exhibited by the ice-bonded permafrost bluffs in Arctic Alaska, however, is not well explained by these tools. Investigation of the oceanographic, thermal, and mechanical processes that are relevant to permafrost bluff failure along Arctic coastlines is needed. We conducted physics-based numerical simulations of mechanical response that focus on the impact of geometric and material variability on permafrost bluff stress states for a coastal setting in Arctic Alaska that is prone to toppling mode block failure. Our three-dimensional geomechanical boundary-value problems output static realizations of compressive and tensile stresses. We use these results to quantify variability in the loci of potential instability. We observe that niche dimension affects the location and magnitude of the simulated maximum tensile stress more strongly than the bluff height, ice wedge polygon size, ice wedge geometry, bulk density, Young’s Modulus, and Poisson’s Ratio. Our simulations indicate that variations in niche dimension can produce radically different potential failure areas and that even relatively shallow vertical cracks can concentrate displacement within ice-bonded permafrost bluffs. These findings suggest that stability assessment approaches, for which the geometry of the failure plane is delineated a priori, may not be ideal for coastlines similar to our study area and could hamper predictions of erosion rates and nearshore sediment/biogeochemical loading.

Frontiers in Earth Science↗
USGS2013

Hurricane Isaac: observations and analysis of coastal change

Understanding storm-induced coastal change and forecasting these changes require knowledge of the physical processes associated with a storm and the geomorphology of the impacted coastline. The primary physical process of interest is sediment transport that is driven by waves, currents, and storm surge associated with storms. Storm surge, which is the rise in water level due to the wind, barometric pressure, and other factors, allows both waves and currents to impact parts of the coast not normally exposed to these processes. Coastal geomorphology reflects the coastal changes associated with extreme-storm processes. Relevant geomorphic variables that are observable before and after storms include sand dune elevation, beach width, shoreline position, sediment grain size, and foreshore beach slope. These variables, in addition to hydrodynamic processes, can be used to quantify coastal change and are used to predict coastal vulnerability to storms (Stockdon and others, 2007). The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) National Assessment of Coastal Change Hazards (NACCH) project ( http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/national-assessment/ ) provides hazard information to those concerned about the Nation’s coastlines, including residents of coastal areas, government agencies responsible for coastal management, and coastal researchers. Extreme-storm research is a component of the NACCH project ( http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/hurricanes/ ) that includes development of predictive understanding, vulnerability assessments using models, and updated observations in response to specific storm events. In particular, observations were made to determine morphological changes associated with Hurricane Isaac, which made landfall in the United States first at Southwest Pass, at the mouth of the Mississippi River, at 0000 August 29, 2012 UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) and again, 8 hours later, west of Port Fourchon, Louisiana (Berg, 2013). Methods of observation included oblique aerial photography, airborne light detection and ranging (lidar) topographic surveys, and ground-based topographic surveys. This report documents data-collection efforts and presents qualitative and quantitative descriptions of hurricane-induced changes to the shoreline, beaches, dunes, and infrastructure in the region that was heavily impacted by Hurricane Isaac. The report is divided into the following sections: Section 1: Introduction Section 2: Storm Overview, presents a synopsis of the storm, including meteorological evolution, wind speed impact area, wind-wave generation, and storm-surge extent and magnitudes. Section 3: Coastal-Change Observations, describes data-collection missions, including acquisition of oblique aerial photography and airborne lidar topographic surveys, in response to Hurricane Isaac. Section 4: Coastal-Change Analysis, describes data-analysis methods and observations of coastal change.

Atlantic Ocean;Caribbean Sea;Gulf Of Mexico;Missis↗
USGS2013

Short-term variability of 7 Be atmospheric deposition and watershed response in a Pacific coastal stream, Monterey Bay, California, USA

Beryllium-7 is a powerful and commonly used tracer for environmental processes such as watershed sediment provenance, soil erosion, fluvial and nearshore sediment cycling, and atmospheric fallout. However, few studies have quantified temporal or spatial variability of 7 Be accumulation from atmospheric fallout, and parameters that would better define the uses and limitations of this geochemical tracer. We investigated the abundance and variability of 7 Be in atmospheric deposition in both rain events and dry periods, and in stream surface-water samples collected over a ten-month interval at sites near northern Monterey Bay (37°N, 122°W) on the central California coast, a region characterized by a rainy winters, dry summers, and small mountainous streams with flashy hydrology. The range of 7 Be activity in rainwater samples from the main sampling site was 1.3–4.4 Bq L −1 , with a mean (±standard deviation) of 2.2 ± 0.9 Bq L −1 , and a volume-weighted average of 2.0 Bq L −1 . The range of wet atmospheric deposition was 18–188 Bq m −2 per rain event, with a mean of 72 ± 53 Bq m −2 . Dry deposition fluxes of 7 Be ranged from less than 0.01 up to 0.45 Bq m −2 d −1 , with an estimated dry season deposition of 7 Bq m −2 month −1 . Annualized 7 Be atmospheric deposition was approximately 1900 Bq m −2 yr −1 , with most deposition via rainwater (>95%) and little via dry deposition. Overall, these activities and deposition fluxes are similar to values found in other coastal locations with comparable latitude and Mediterranean-type climate. Particulate 7 Be values in the surface water of the San Lorenzo River in Santa Cruz, California, ranged from <0.01 Bq g −1 to 0.6 Bq g −1 , with a median activity of 0.26 Bq g −1 . A large storm event in January 2010 characterized by prolonged flooding resulted in the entrainment of 7 Be-depleted sediment, presumably from substantial erosion in the watershed. There were too few particulate 7 Be data over the storm to accurately model a 7 Be load, but the results suggest enhanced watershed export of 7 Be from small, mountainous river systems compared to other watershed types.

California↗
USGS1997

Lower to middle Eocene sequences of the New Jersey coastal plain and their significance for global climate change

Boreholes from Island Beach, Allaire, Atlantic City, and Mays Landing, NJ provide an excellent chronology of lower to middle Eocene passive margin sequences and allow analysis of long-term sea-level changes and sedimentation patterns. These New Jersey sequences are tied directly to the geomagnetic polarity time scale through magnetostratigraphy. Integrated stratigraphy (including magnetostratigraphy, lithostratigraphy, plankton biostratigraphy, and benthic foraminiferal biofacies studies) reveals that these sections contain a relatively continuous record of lowermost Eocene to middle Eocene deposition interrupted by short hiatuses. A sequence boundary at the base of the section spans the Paleocene/Eocene boundary, representing a hiatus from 55.8 to 54.7 Ma. A second sequence boundary is associated with a hiatus from 54.0 to 53.4 Ma. A third sequence boundary is associated with a hiatus from 52.9 to 52.3 Ma. Two major unconformities occur near the lower/middle Eocene boundary at all three boreholes. The first represents a hiatus between 50.9 and ~50.5 to 49.9 Ma; the second, between ~49.6 and 48.6 Ma. Early Eocene water depths inferred from benthic foraminiferal biofacies analysis varied from 150 to 200 m and reached their maximum depth between 53.4 and 53.2 Ma. In the middle Eocene, the sedimentation record is less continuous with hiatuses from 48.3 to 47.9 Ma, 46.9 to 44.5 Ma, and 43.4 to ~41.2 Ma. A major lithofacies change from carbonate dominated to siliciclastic dominated occurred by 41.2 Ma. Of the 14 sequences inferred by Exxon for the early to middle Eocene, nine are resolvable on the New Jersey Margin and the remaining five appear to be combined with others. Thus the New Jersey record is consistent with the Exxon record for the early to middle Eocene, although the New Jersey record is better dated. Comparison of the record of sedimentation with the global δ 18 O record shows interesting parallels. It is unlikely that early Eocene sequence boundaries are the result of glacioeustasy because hiatuses from the New Jersey Coastal Plain in this interval do not match increases in the δ 18 O record. In the late middle Eocene, concomitant increases in the planktonic and benthic δ 18 O records coincide with the timing of hiatuses on the New Jersey Coastal Plain. Increases in the δ 18 O records between 43 and 41 Ma coincide with a New Jersey hiatus and a corresponding change in sedimentation type from carbonate dominated to siliciclastic dominated. We conclude that these represent evidence of the first Antarctic ice cap and the beginning of the “Icehouse” world.

New Jersey↗
USGS2009

Coastal Processes Study of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties, California

The Santa Barbara littoral cell (SBLC) is a complex coastal system with significant management challenges. The coastline ranges broadly in exposure to wave energy, fluvial inputs, hard structures, and urbanization. Geologic influence (structural control) on coastline orientation exerts an important control on local beach behavior, with anthropogenic alterations and the episodic nature of sediment supply and transport also playing important roles. Short- and long-term temporal analyses of shoreline change, beach width, and volume change show no obvious trends in regional beach behavior. Extensive armoring along the SBLC has accreted the back beach, narrowing beach widths and in some cases increasing sediment transport. Unarmored beaches have exhibited mild erosion while maintaining similar widths. Harbor constructions have had notable impacts on downdrift beaches, but once the coastal system has equilibrated the signal becomes strongly dampened and littoral-drift gradients driven by natural shoreline orientation again become dominant. Sediment inputs from the Santa Clara River dominate sediment processes on beaches to the south. The SBLC is dominated by episodic flood and storm-wave events. Exceptionally large accretion signals along this stretch of coastline are closely tied to major flood events when large amounts of sediment are deposited in deltas. These deltas decay over time, supplying downdrift beaches with sediment. Storm-wave impacts and gradients in alongshore transport can lead to beach rotations and migrating erosion hotspots when geological controls are weak. Annual and seasonal rates of cross-shore and alongshore transport are at least 2-3 times higher for the more west- and southwest-facing beaches south of the Ventura River as compared to the more sheltered beaches to the west/north. Gross littoral transports are good approximations of net littoral transports for beaches west/north of Ventura as transport is almost purely unidirectional. However, significant transport reversals occur intermittently in the east/south, especially adjacent to the Ventura and Channel Islands Harbors. For this reason, and due to the episodic nature of flood and storm wave events, using dredging rates from the harbors at Ventura and Channel Islands as a proxy for drift rates may be invalid. An extensive grain-size investigation of the surface and shallow subsurface in the nearshore region of the SBLC identified only two sites for potential beach-nourishment material: offshore of Santa Barbara Harbor and Oil Piers. However, seismic-reflection lines offshore of Santa Barbara suggest shallow bedrock (< 1 m), so the volume of coarse material in this area may be limited. Sampling of the Santa Clara River delta was minimal, but this site could be promising. Numerical modeling shows that local beach behavior is primarily influenced by local littoral-drift gradients, which are in turn controlled by natural shoreline orientation. Given the high rates of net littoral drift and the relatively insignificant cross-shore transport in the SBLC, the SBLC should be considered a sediment-limited system (as opposed to a transport-limited system). Management actions, such as any future beach nourishment, would likely have a severely limited life span without employing additional measures that adequately address local littoral-drift gradients to retain added sand.

Open-File Report↗
USGS1992

Evidence from Cd/Ca ratios in foraminifera for greater upwelling off California 4,000 years ago

UPWELLING of nutrient-rich Pacific deep water along the North American west coast is ultimately driven by the temperature difference between air masses over land and over the ocean. The intensity of upwelling, and biological production in the region, could therefore be affected by anthropogenic climate change. Examination of the geological record is one way to study the link between climate and upwelling. Because Pacific deep water is enriched in cadmium, dissolved cadmium concentrations in coastal water off central California reflect the intensity of upwelling. By demonstrating that the Cd/Ca ratio in the shell of a benthic foraminifer, Elphidiella hannai, is proportional to the Cd concentration in coastal water, we show here that foraminiferal Cd/Ca ratios can be used to detect past changes in mean upwelling intensity. Examination of a sediment core from the mouth of San Francisco Bay reveals that foraminiferal Cd/Ca decreased by about 30% from 4,000 years ago to the present, probably because of a reduction in coastal upwelling. This observation is consistent with predictions of atmospheric general circulation models that northwesterly winds, which drive upwelling, became weaker over this period as summer insolation of the Northern Hemisphere decreased.

Nature↗
USGS2008

Hydrography and bottom boundary layer dynamics: Influence on inner shelf sediment mobility, Long Bay, North Carolina

This study examined the hydrography and bottom boundary-layer dynamics of two typical storm events affecting coastal North Carolina (NC); a hurricane and the passages of two small consecutive extratropical storms during November 2005. Two upward-looking 1200-kHz Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCP) were deployed on the inner shelf in northern Long Bay, NC at water depths of less than 15 m. Both instruments profiled the overlying water column in 0.35 in bins beginning at a height of 1.35 in above the bottom (mab). Simultaneous measurements of wind speed and direction, wave and current parameters, and acoustic backscatter were coupled with output from a bottom boundary layer (bbl) model to describe the hydrography and boundary layer conditions during each event. The bbl model also was used to quantify sediment transport in the boundary layer during each storm. Both study sites exhibited similar temporal variations in wave and current magnitude, however, wave heights during the November event were higher than waves associated with the hurricane. Near-bottom mean and subtidal currents, however, were of greater magnitude during the hurricane. Peak depth-integrated suspended sediment transport during the November event exceeded transport associated with the hurricane by 25-70%. Substantial spatial variations in sediment transport existed throughout both events. During both events, along-shelf sediment transport exceeded across-shelf transport and was related to the magnitude and direction of subtidal currents. Given the variations in sediment type across the bay, complex shoreline configuration, and local bathymetry, the sediment transport rates reported here are very site specific. However, the general hydrography associated with the two storms is representative of conditions across northern Long Bay. Since the beaches in the study area undergo frequent renourishment to counter the effects of beach erosion, the results of this study also are relevant to coastal management decision-making. Specifically, these issues include 1) identification of municipalities that should share the cost for renourishment given the likelihood for significant along-shelf sand movement and 2) appropriate timing of sand placement with respect to local climatology and sea-turtle nesting restrictions.

North Carolina↗