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At least 703 records · Page 39Linked to original sources

USGS2025

Quantifying benthic flux of Mysis biomass through diel vertical migration at the ecosystem scale

Mysis diluviana is a macroinvertebrate that couples benthic and pelagic habitats on a daily timescale through diel vertical migration (DVM). However, quantifying how much Mysis biomass is exchanged between benthic and pelagic habitats at an ecosystem scale is difficult because of sampling limitations and variability in Mysis DVM behavior related to light and depth. Although Mysis are benthic-pelagic migrators, a portion remains pelagic during the day offshore in Lake Ontario, partially contradicting the assumption of population-level DVM over deep areas. To estimate the amount of biomass transferred from benthic to pelagic habitat via DVM in Lake Ontario, we estimated the portion of pelagic biomass at night originating from benthic habitat as the difference between night and day pelagic estimates from net tows along a bathymetric depth gradient. We then modeled the portion as a function of depth, extrapolated these depth-dependent estimates to an existing lake wide night-pelagic dataset, and summed amounts across depth strata. We estimated more biomass was transferred from benthic to pelagic habitat at intermediate lake depths (100–160 m) despite greater offshore (> 180 m) night-pelagic biomass. Our results suggest ways to improve estimates of Mysis habitat coupling and how to account for important factors such as depth and light for modeling Mysis DVM behavior at the population- and ecosystem-levels.

Lake Ontario↗

USGS2006

Temporal trends of young-of-year fishes in Lake Erie and comparison of diel sampling periods

We explored temporal trends of young-of-year (YOY) fishes caught in bottom trawl hauls at an established offshore monitoring site in Lake Erie in fall during 1961–2001. Sampling was conducted during morning, afternoon, and night in each year. Catches per hour (CPH) of alewife ( Alosa pseudoharengus ) YOY were relatively low and exhibited no temporal trend. This result was consistent with the species’ intolerance to Lake Erie’s adverse winter water temperatures. Gizzard shad ( Dorosoma cepedianum ) YOY decreased sharply after 1991, which was consistent with recent oligotrophication of the lake. Following the establishment in 1979 and rapid increase of white perch ( Morone americana ) YOY, white bass ( Morone chrysops ) and freshwater drum ( Aplodinotus grunniens ) YOY decreased. Trout-perch ( Percopsis omiscomaycus ) YOY decreased during 1986–1991, but recovered to previous levels during 1991–2001. The recovery coincided with the resurgence of mayflies ( Ephemoptera ) in the lake. CPH of spottail shiner ( Notropis hudsonius ) and emerald shiner ( N. atherinoides ) YOY exhibited no temporal trend between 1961 and the late 1970s to early 1980s. CPH of yellow perch ( Perca flavescens ) YOY decreased during 1961–1988, and walleye ( Sander vitreum ) YOY increased overall during the time series. These observations were consistent with published studies of adults in the region. CPH of 4 of the 10 species of YOY considered were greatest during night. CPH for walleye YOY was higher in the morning than in the afternoon, but there was no significant difference between night and morning abundances. The results suggest that (1) CPH of YOY fishes may be a useful monitoring tool for Lake Erie, and (2) offshore monitoring programs that do not include night sampling periods may underestimate recruitment for several common species.

Environmental Monitoring and Assessment↗

USGS1981

Patterns of groundwater salinity changes in a deep continental-oceanic transect off the southeastern Atlantic coast of the U.S.A.

Investigations of formation-fluid salinities in a transect from western Georgia to the edge of the Blake Plateau off the coast of Georgia show surprisingly similar hydrochemical features offshore and onshore. A fresh-brackish wedge of groundwater (<25 g/kg total dissolved solids) lies beneath the shelf to a depth of ∼ 900 m. On land, brackish waters extend to a maximum depth of ∼ 1.2 km below sea level in Lowndes County, Georgia. In deeper horizons, hypersaline brines (> 100 g/kg) occur in Lower Cretaceous (?) strata. These strata have a pronounced evaporitic (anhydritic) character in the offshore segment. Strong salinity gradients in interstitial waters signify buried evaporite deposits at drill sites beneath the Blake Plateau.

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina↗

USGS1978

A sediment-dispersal model for the South Texas continental shelf, northwest Gulf of Mexico

Textural-distribution patterns of sea-floor sediments on the South Texas continental shelf between Matagorda Bay and the U.S.-Mexico international boundary were evaluated as part of a regional environmental-studies program. Sediment textural gradients support a conceptual model for the regional sediment-dispersal system, which is characterized by both net offshore transport and net south-trending coastwise transport components on a wind-dominated shelf. Coastwise transport results in the net southward migration of both palimpsest sandy mud composing the ancestral Brazos-Colorado delta flank in the northern sector, and modern mud composing the central sector; these migrating sediments are encroaching southward onto immobile relict muddy sands composing the ancestral Rio Grande delta in the southern sector. In the proposed model, the suspension transport of modern silt-enriched mud derived mainly from coastal sources is the dominant dispersal mechanism. Net offshore transport is attributed both to diffusion, and to the advective ebb-tide discharge of turbid lagoonal-estuarine waters from coastal inlets. Net southward transport is attributed mainly to advection by seasonally residual coastwise drift currents reflecting a winter-dominated hydraulic regime. Frequent winter storms characterized by relatively high-speed northerly winds that accompany the passage of cold fronts appear to be dominant regional dispersal agents.

Texas↗

USGS1983

K-Ar ages and the opening of the South Atlantic Ocean: Basaltic rock from the Brazilian margin

New K-Ar ages for 13 samples of basalt, gabbro, wehrlite, and trachyandesite drilled from the Brazilian continental shelf and coastline yield information about the timing of the opening of the South Atlantic and the nature of the crust seaward from the Brazil margin. The oldest basalt is 138.1 ± 3.5 m.y. "> 138.1 ± 3.5m.y. old and from offshore at 24.5°S; it represents Serra Geral flood basalt on attenuated crust in the Santos basin. Basalts from the coastline at 19.5°S are mixed with terrigenous graben sediments, and their ages confirm that rifting was underway before 130 m.y. Offshore sites in the Campos basin, ∼22°–23°S, 41°W, have basalt ranging from 124 to 112 m.y. in age and mostly continental flood basalt in composition. One 112-m.y. basalt, however, is MORB-like and could therefore represent oceanic lithosphere mixed with continental crust about 50 km from the shoreline at ∼22.5°S. Other samples reveal compositionally varied intraplate, passive-margin magmatism occurring 75-43 m.y. ago. They correlate with profuse contemporary alkalic magmatism on the southeastern Brazil coast and probably represent reactivation of zones of “weakness” (i.e., fracture zone-lineaments).

Marine Geology↗

USGS1983

A system for measuring bottom profile, waves and currents in the high-energy nearshore environment

A new data-acquisition system capable of measuring waves, currents and the nearshore profile in breaking waves as high as 5 m has been developed and successfully field-tested. Components of the mechanical system are a sled carrying a vertical mast, a double-drum winch placed landward of the beach, and a line that runs from one drum of the winch around three blocks, which are the corners of a right triangle, to the other drum of the winch. The sled is attached to the shore-normal side of the triangular line arrangement and is pulled offshore by one drum of the winch and onshore by the other. The profile is measured as the sled is towed along the shore-normal transect using an infrared rangefinder mounted landward of the winch and optical prisms mounted on top of the sled's mast. A pressure sensor and two-axis electromagnetic current meter are mounted on the frame of the sled. These data are encoded on the sled and telemetered to a receiving/recording station onshore. Preliminary results suggest that near-bottom offshore-flowing currents during periods of high-energy swell are important in forcing changes to the configuration of the nearshore profile.

Marine Geology↗

USGS1989

Non-energy minerals and surficial geology of the continental margin of Maryland

The surficial sediments have been mapped and the shallow geologic framework outlined of the Maryland inner continental shelf. The initial study encompassed a small area offshore of Assateague Island but was extended northward to include the Ocean City area and eastward across several linear shoals. The surficial sediments are predominantly sand with mean grain sizes ranging from 0.40 to 2.89∅. Mud and gravel are the mappable components of the surficial sediments. Muds are distributed along a N-S-trending band seaward of the shoreface. Gravels are mapped farther offshore in 18–22 m of water. Four distinct seismic units are identified from seismic reflection profiles. The lowermost unit, T1, exhibits high-angle clinoforms truncated at the top by a locally prominent near-horizontal reflector. Above this reflector are concordant strata with parallel to subparallel bedding designated as Q2. Incised into Q2 is an extensive channel, Q3, that trends both coast-parallel and coast-normal. The upper unit, Q4, overlaps portions of units Q2 and Q3 along the eastward edges of the study area and is represented in the nearshore by (Holocene inlet?) channeling adjacent to the shoreface. Note that this excludes the modern shelf and “sheet”.

Marine Geology↗

USGS1989

Search for clues to Mesozoic graben on Long Island

The position of Long Island between the Hartford Basin of Connecticut and graben structures reported from seismic reflection studies offshore to the south of the island suggests the possibility that other grabens associated with the early Mesozoic rifting might be buried beneath central Long Island. The hypothesis that post-rift tectonic activity would be related to the rift grabens and that such activity would be expressed in the post-rift sedimentary deposits led to a study of the Cretaceous and Pleistocene section to seek clues for buried grabens on Long Island. The Pleistocene glacial deposits in central and eastern Long Island have been mapped and a pollen zonation in the Upper Cretaceous section in the central part established. This work, combined with literature research, suggests the following: 1. (1) In central Long Island, the spacing of wells which reach basement enables a NE- striking zone free of basement samples to be defined where a buried graben could occur. This zone is referred to as the “permissible zone” because within it the data permit the existence of a hidden graben. 2. (2) The abrupt changes in the thickness of some pollen zones in the Upper Cretaceous deposits of central Long Island may be related to Cretaceous faulting. 3. (3) Buried preglacial valleys, the confluence of glacial lobes and major glacial outwash channels seem concentrated in west central and central Long Island. The loci of these drainage features may reflect structural control by a basement depression. 4. (4) The “permissible zone” is aligned with the zone of structures in an offshore zone south of central Long Island and with the Hartford Basin in Connecticut. Geophysical anomalies also fit into this pattern. 5. (5) A definitive answer to the question of a buried graben on Long Island will require a seismic line across the “permissible zone”, or further drilling.

Marine Geology↗

USGS1988

Paleolimnology of Lake Tubutulik, an iron-meromictic Eocene Lake, eastern Seward Peninsula, Alaska

Sideritic lacustrine mudstone was found in drill core from a uranium deposit in the Death Valley area in the eastern part of the Seward Peninsula, Alaska. The precursor sediments for this rock were deposited in an unusual “iron-meromictic” Eocene lake, herein named Lake Tubutulik, which occupied part of the Boulder Creek basin, a structural graben that is probably a southern extension of the larger Death Valley basin. The Boulder Creek basin is bounded on the west by granite of the Late Cretaceous Darby Pluton, on the east by Precambrian to Paleozoic metasedimentary rocks. The lake basin was formed by basaltic flows that dammed the river valley of the ancestral Tubutulik River in early Eocene time. Lake Tubutulik contained a nearshore facies of fine-grained organic mud and an offshore facies of laminated sideritic mud. The offshore (profundal) laminated mudstone consists of alternating layers of authigenic siderite and detrital layers containing mostly quartz and clay minerals. Both lacustrine facies contain turbidities. The lacustrine sediments graded laterally into an onshore facies of colluvial and fluvial sandstone, paludal mudstone, and coal. The ancient lake apparently occupied a small deep basin in a tectonically active area of high relief. Meromixus was probably stabilized by reduced iron and bicarbonate dissolved in the monimolimnion. The intensity of meromixus decreased as the lake became shallower from sediment filling. The source of the iron, abundant in the monimolimnion of Lake Tubutulik, was probably the Eocene basalt. Based on carbon isotope analysis of the siderite, the dissolved bicarbonate in the profundal facies was largely inorganic. Sideritic carbon in one sample from the onshore paludal facies has an isotopic signature ( δ 13 C = +16.9) consistent with residual carbon formed during methanogenic fermentation.

Alaska↗

USGS1987

Multiple sources of alkanes in Quaternary oceanic sediment of Antarctica

Normal alkanes ( n -C 13 n -C 36 ), isoprenoid hydrocarbons ( i -C 15 , i -C 16 , i -C 18 , i -C 19 , and i -C 20 ) triterpanes (C 27 C 32 ), and (C 27 C 29 ) are present in low concentrations offshore Antarctica in near-surface, Quaternary sediment of the Wilkes Land continental margin and of the western Ross Sea. The distributions of these hydrocarbons are interpreted relative to possible sources and processes. The hydrocarbons appear to be mixtures of primary and recycled material from marine and terrigenous sources. The n -alkanes are most abundant and are characterized by two distinct populations, one of probable marine origin and the other likely from terrigenous, vascular plant sources. Because the continent of Antarctica today is devoid of higher plants, the plant-derived hydrocarbons in these offshore sediments probably came from wind-blown material and recycled Antarctic sediment that contains land-plant remains from an earlier period of time. Isoprenoid hydrocarbons are partially recycled and mainly of marine origin; the dominance of pristane over phytane suggests oxic paleoenvironmental conditions. Both modern and ancient triterpanes and steranes are present, and the distribution of these indicates a mixture of primary and recycled bacterial, algal, and possible higher-plant materials. Although the sampled sediments were deposited during the Quaternary, they apparently contain a significant component of hydrocarbons of pre-Quaternary age.

Organic Geochemistry↗

USGS1991

Organic matter variations in transgressive and regressive shales

Organic matter in the Upper Cretaceous Mancos Shale adjacent to the Tocito Sandstone in the San Juan Basin of New Mexico was characterized using organic petrology and organic geochemistry. Differences in the organic matter found in these regressive and transgressive offshore marine sediments have been documented and assessed within a sequence stratigraphic framework. The regressive Lower Mancos Shale below the Tocito Sandstone contains abundant well preserved phytoclasts and correspondingly low hydrogen indices. Total organic carbon values for the regressive shale are low. Sediments from the transgressive systems tract (Tocito Sandstone and overlying Upper Mancos Shale) contain less terrestrially derived organic matter, more amorphous non-structured protistoclasts, higher hydrogen indices and more total organic carbon. Advanced stages of degradation are characteristic of the phytoclasts found in the transgressive shale. Amorphous material in the transgressive shale fluoresces strongly while that found in the regressive shale is typically non-fluorescent. Data from pyrolysis-gas chromatography confirm these observations. These differences are apparently related to the contrasting depositional styles that were active on the shelf during regression and subsequent transgression. It is suggested that data from organic petrology and organic geochemistry provide greater resolution in sedimentologic and stratigraphic interpretations, particularly when working with basinward, fine-grained sediments. Petroleum source potential for the regressive Lower Mancos Shale below the Tocito Sandstone is poor. Based on abundant fluorescent amorphous material, high hydrogen indices, and high total organic carbon, the transgressive Upper Mancos Shale above the Tocito Sandstone possesses excellent source potential. This suggests that appreciable source potential can be found in offshore, fine-grained sediments of the transgressive systems tract below the condensed section and associated downlap surface. Organic petrology can be used to accurately predict petroleum source potential. The addition of simple fluorescence microscopy greatly enhances this predictive ability because non-generative amorphous material is generally non-fluorescent. Organic petrology must also be used to properly evaluate the utility of T max from programmed pyrolysis as a thermal maturity indicator. Organic matter dominated by autochthonous amorphous protistoclasts exhibits lower T max values than that which is composed of mostly phytoclasts.

New Mexico↗

USGS1989

Spatial, seasonal and diel distribution of fishes in a California reservoir dominated by native fishes

During 21 months of sampling with various techniques, we captured 24 species of fish in Britton Reservoir. Nine species comprised over 96% of the number of fish captured and approximately 88% of the biomass. Five native non-game species accounted for over 77% of the catches. The native non-game fishes have maintained large populations in the reservoir despite continued introductions of non-native species. Two sources of non-native species exist. The first is the introduction of exotic species directly into the reservoir during fish-stocking programs. The second is the continuous movement of non-native fishes into the reservoir from large populations which reside in a major tributary of the reservoir. Factors responsible for the large number of native fishes are: management of the reservoir for hydroelectric generation; temperature regime; reservoir morphology. The fish community structure is stratified along two axes: upper basin/lower basin and inshore/offshore. Most of the 24 species were found inshore: 14 species were found offshore. Four of the native non-game fishes were most abundant in the upper basin: three introduced non-native fishes were most abundant in the lower basin of the reservoir. The offshore community was dynamic on a daily and seasonal basis.

California↗

USGS1985

Seasonal variation in sediment transport on the Russian River shelf, California

Near-bottom currents, light transmission and scattering, and bottom pressure were measured with GEOPROBE tripods and vector-averaging current meters during June 1979 to April 1980 on the central shelf 10 km west of the Russian River, California. The instruments were located on the mid-shelf mud belt composed of bimodal sandy clayey silts contributed principally by the Russian River. During the summer season of persistent northwesterly, upwelling-favorable winds, the average and maximum current speeds 5 m above the bottom were 11 and 31 cm s −1 , respectively. The mean (subtidal) flow at 5 m above bottom was poleward and slightly offshore at about 6 cm s −1 . The strongest wave-generated bottom currents were about 10 cm s −1 , but oscillatory velocities > 5 cm s −1 were infrequent. Suspended-matter concentrations, derived from the optical data at 1.9 m above the bottom, ranged from 1 to 6 mg l −1 . The optical data show that the currents and waves were generally below threshold levels for sediment erosion through the summer. In contrast, during the autumn and, particularly, the winter months, the average and maximum concentrations of suspended matter increased substantially. The increases were primarily caused by larger waves from distant storms and short intervals of strong currents associated with local storms and, secondarily, by the large seasonal flow of the Russian River. Wind-driven and wave-generated bottom currents were as large as 37 and 45 cm s −1 , respectively, during local storms in December 1979 and February 1980. Suspended-matter concentrations averaged about 7 mg l −1 during non-storm winter periods, but increased to nearly 150 mg l −1 during a December storm. Estimates of suspended-matter flux near the bottom show that the local winter storms, which had a combined duration of about 12 days, could account for 30 to 50% of the total annual suspended-sediment transport at the mid-shelf site. Although intervals of large swell were at times superimposed on southward advective currents, the major sediment-transport events were caused by strong southerly winds that produced poleward bottom currents with a significant offshore component. The primary aspects of the distribution of modern sediments on this shelf are in good agreement with the observed poleward transport.

California↗

USGS1994

Microfossil biostratigraphy of prograding Neogene platform-margin carbonates, Bahamas: Age constraints and alternatives

Benthic and planktic foraminifera and calcareous nannofossils were recovered in shallow-water carbonate rock cores from two continuous boreholes drilled 7.5 km apart on the west platform margin of the Great Bahama Bank. The microfossils define six biostratigraphic units in each hole. One unit in each hole represents a correlative condensed section. Seven foraminiferal biozones are recognized in 11 of the units between the holes: middle Miocene Globorotalia fohsi robusta Zone N12, late Miocene G. acostaensis Zone N16 and G. humerosa Zone N17, early Pliocene G. margaritae evoluta Subzone N19, late Pliocene G. exilis Subzone N21 and, tentatively, G. tosaensis tosaensis Zone N21, and early Pleistocene G. crassaformis viola Subzone N22. The twelfth unit is inferred to be of G. crassaformis viola Subzone N22 age. The oldest unit is onshore, the youngest is offshore. As presently interpreted, the nannofossil and foraminiferal zonations are partially correlative. Although the microfossils unequivocally constrain the series ages of the sediments, the incompleteness of the fossil record allows for alternative biozonal age models within the series. The Miocene and Pliocene biozones are common to both holes, but the greatest similarities between the holes are the significant mixing of middle and late Miocene, and late Miocene-early Pliocene faunas, the greatly condensed intervals at the Miocene/Pliocene boundary, and the early Pliocene influx of deep-water benthic and pelagic foraminifera. Of particular importance is the tentative recognition of late Pliocene G. tosaensis tosaensis Zone N21 in one borehole. Subsequent data not available to this phase of the study indicate that much of the zone is likely missing. Its absence will lend support to speculations of a regional unconformity in the Bahamas. The microfossils indicate that (1) several transgressions occurred from the middle Miocene to at least the earliest Pleistocene (greater than 11.5–greater than 0.46 Ma), during which banktop-derived sediments accumulating at the margin prograded the platform seaward; (2) a condensed interval on the bank top may represent a late Miocene lowstand, a period of sediment bypassing, or a lack of accommodation space; (3) the slope received thin layers of pelagic sediments in a condensed interval during the late Miocene and early Pliocene, while the bank top accommodated early Pliocene (4.2–3.4 Ma) deep-water indicators prior to a likely period of exposure (2.35 - 1.89 Ma); (4) two cycles of banktop sediment production and starvation occurred during the Pliocene; (5) the Pliocene transgression was punctuated by stillstands or low-amplitude reversals during which parts of biozones did not accumulate; and (6) the sediments containing the most complete microfossil-datum record are the thin pelagic strata that mark interruptions in the regular shedding of transgressive deposits from the platform. Sedimentation-rate patterns varied but were generally higher offshore than onshore.

Marine Micropaleontology↗

USGS2011

Seafloor morphology and coral habitat variability in a volcanic environment: Kaloko-Honokohau National Park, Hawaii, USA

Kaloko–Honokohau National Historical Park (KAHO) is one of three National Park lands along the leeward, west, or Kona, coast of the island of Hawaii, USA. The park includes 596 acres (2.4 km2) of submerged lands and marine resources within its official boundaries. The offshore region of KAHO, part of the insular shelf of the island of Hawaii, comprises a volcanic embayment that extends nearly 3.5 km alongshore and varies in width between 120 and 875 m from the shoreline to the 40 m isobath, the limit of the high-resolution bathymetry. Multiple Holocene volcanic flows coalesce within Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park (KAHO) on the island of Hawaii to create a complex offshore morphology. The volcanic-dominated morphology includes flat to gently sloping volcanic benches, boulder fields, cliffs and ledges, pinnacles, ridges, arches, and steep shelf escarpments. Each of these environments provide distinct habitat zones for coral species, ranging from isolated heads of Porites lobata and Pocillopora meandrina to dense thickets of Porites compressa . In contrast to coral habitat elsewhere in the Hawaiian Islands, where coral typically populates relict carbonate platforms, coral cover in KAHO is typically only a thin veneer of live coral and rubble on exposed volcanic pavement. In only a few locations does coral or accreted carbonate reef obscure the underlying volcanic surface.

Book chapter↗

USGS2011

Implementation and modification of a three-dimensional radiation stress formulation for surf zone and rip-current applications

Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v 3.0), a three-dimensional numerical ocean model, was previously enhanced for shallow water applications by including wave-induced radiation stress forcing provided through coupling to wave propagation models (SWAN, REF/DIF). This enhancement made it suitable for surf zone applications as demonstrated using examples of obliquely incident waves on a planar beach and rip current formation in longshore bar trough morphology (Haas and Warner, 2009). In this contribution, we present an update to the coupled model which implements a wave roller model and also a modified method of the radiation stress term based on Mellor (2008, 2011a,b,in press) that includes a vertical distribution which better simulates non-conservative (i.e., wave breaking) processes and appears to be more appropriate for sigma coordinates in very shallow waters where wave breaking conditions dominate. The improvements of the modified model are shown through simulations of several cases that include: (a) obliquely incident spectral waves on a planar beach; (b) obliquely incident spectral waves on a natural barred beach (DUCK'94 experiment); (c) alongshore variable offshore wave forcing on a planar beach; (d) alongshore varying bathymetry with constant offshore wave forcing; and (e) nearshore barred morphology with rip-channels. Quantitative and qualitative comparisons to previous analytical, numerical, laboratory studies and field measurements show that the modified model replicates surf zone recirculation patterns (onshore drift at the surface and undertow at the bottom) more accurately than previous formulations based on radiation stress (Haas and Warner, 2009). The results of the model and test cases are further explored for identifying the forces operating in rip current development and the potential implication for sediment transport and rip channel development. Also, model analysis showed that rip current strength is higher when waves approach at angles of 5° to 10° in comparison to normally incident waves.

Coastal Engineering↗

USGS2025

Modeling the impacts of sand placement strategies on barrier island evolution in a semi-enclosed bay system

This study assesses the impacts of five proposed restoration actions at Little Dauphin Island, a low-lying relic spit in a semi-enclosed bay system on the Alabama coast. A Delft3D model is developed to simulate annual scale (five-year) sediment transport and resulting bed level changes. The model is validated with observed water level and wave data, as well as sediment tracers that were deployed offshore of the island. An XBeach model is developed to simulate storm-driven morphologic change and is validated for hurricanes Ivan (2004), Katrina (2005)and Sally (2020). Together, the models are used to assess differences in the island's morphological response under a no-action (status quo) scenario representing a continuous island, tidal inlet realignment, a sand motor nourishment, beach and dune restoration and a dredged offshore borrow area. The no-action scenario revealed that the island breached at multiple locations including the location of the proposed inlet realignment during each storm. The realigned channel did not prevent breaching on the island, but reduced the magnitude of sand transported through the breaches. The sand motor provided some sheltering to leeward shorelines during storms but did not prevent breaching from occurring elsewhere. Fairweather waves and currents were not strong enough to transport sand outside of the vicinity of the feature to feed adjacent shorelines as intended. The beach and dune restoration reduced storm-driven overtopping along the nourished shoreline. For habitat purposes, strategically placed bayous provided low elevation points that allowed overwash depending on the direction of cross-barrier water level gradients.

Alabama↗

USGS2008

Storm-driven sediment transport in Massachusetts Bay

Massachusetts Bay is a semi-enclosed embayment in the western Gulf of Maine about 50 km wide and 100 km long. Bottom sediment resuspension is controlled predominately by storm-induced surface waves and transport by the tidal- and wind-driven circulation. Because the Bay is open to the northeast, winds from the northeast ('Northeasters') generate the largest surface waves and are thus the most effective in resuspending sediments. The three-dimensional oceanographic circulation model Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is used to explore the resuspension, transport, and deposition of sediment caused by Northeasters. The model transports multiple sediment classes and tracks the evolution of a multilevel sediment bed. The surficial sediment characteristics of the bed are coupled to one of several bottom-boundary layer modules that calculate enhanced bottom roughness due to wave-current interaction. The wave field is calculated from the model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Two idealized simulations were carried out to explore the effects of Northeasters on the transport and fate of sediments. In one simulation, an initially spatially uniform bed of mixed sediments exposed to a series of Northeasters evolved to a pattern similar to the existing surficial sediment distribution. A second set of simulations explored sediment-transport pathways caused by storms with winds from the northeast quadrant by simulating release of sediment at selected locations. Storms with winds from the north cause transport southward along the western shore of Massachusetts Bay, while storms with winds from the east and southeast drive northerly nearshore flow. The simulations show that Northeasters can effectively transport sediments from Boston Harbor and the area offshore of the harbor to the southeast into Cape Cod Bay and offshore into Stellwagen Basin. This transport pattern is consistent with Boston Harbor as the source of silver found in the surficial sediments of Cape Cod Bay and Stellwagen Basin.

Massachusetts↗