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At least 631 records · Page 35Linked to original sources

Understanding thermodynamic relationships and geochemical mass balances from catchment to coast: A tribute to the life and career of Owen P. Bricker III

This special volume of aquatic geochemistry is dedicated to the memory of Owen Peterson Bricker III (1936–2011) and serves as a tribute to his life and career. Owen had a distinguished and productive research career in both academics at Johns Hopkins University (Fig. 1) and as a public servant with the Maryland Geological Survey, the US Environmental Protection Agency, and the US Geological Survey. He was a pioneer and leader in aqueous geochemistry, who applied a study approach that quantified mineral weathering reactions and equilibrium thermodynamic relations to better understand the chemical evolution of stream water in small watersheds. He will be especially remembered for his efforts to establish rigorous field studies in small catchments around the United States as a means of quantifying the sources of acid-neutralizing capacity that affect the chemical status and biological health of natural waters.

Aquatic Geochemistry↗

Response to L. Land comment on Bricker, Rice, Bricker (2014) From Headwaters to Coast: Influence of human activities on water quality of the Potomac River Estuary. Aquatic Geochemistry 20: 291-324

Overabundance of nutrients is considered one of the top challenges to most populated coastal water bodies, including Chesapeake Bay (Executive Order 13508). As scientists, one of our responsibilities is to contribute to the discussion and evaluation of management actions that have the potential to decrease pollution with concomitant improvement of water quality. Results of our science should inform the legislative process for public policy. Bricker et al. (2014) consider the use of shellfish (i.e., oysters) to remediate nutrient pollution in the Potomac River Estuary (PRE), a tributary to Chesapeake Bay. This concept, termed bioextraction, has generated interest around the globe and has shown promise as a nutrient-removal method in other estuaries and with other shellfish species (Lindahl et al. 2005; Ferreira et al. 2009; Shumway 2011; Silva et al. 2011; Carmichael et al. 2012; Pollack et al. 2013; Rose et al. 2014).

Aquatic Geochemistry↗

Demography and movement patterns of leopard sharks (Triakis semifasciata) aggregating near the head of a submarine canyon along the open coast of southern California, USA

The demography, spatial distribution, and movement patterns of leopard sharks (Triakis semifasciata) aggregating near the head of a submarine canyon in La Jolla, California, USA, were investigated to resolve the causal explanations for this and similar shark aggregations. All sharks sampled from the aggregation site ( n =140) were sexually mature and 97.1 % were female. Aerial photographs taken during tethered balloon surveys revealed high densities of milling sharks of up to 5470 sharks ha -1 . Eight sharks were each tagged with a continuous acoustic transmitter and manually tracked without interruption for up to 48 h. Sharks exhibited strong site-fidelity and were generally confined to a divergence (shadow) zone of low wave energy, which results from wave refraction over the steep bathymetric contours of the submarine canyon. Within this divergence zone, the movements of sharks were strongly localized over the seismically active Rose Canyon Fault. Tracked sharks spent most of their time in shallow water (≤2 m for 71.0 % and ≤10 m for 95.9 % of time), with some dispersing to deeper (max: 53.9 m) and cooler (min: 12.7 °C) water after sunset, subsequently returning by sunrise. These findings suggest multiple functions of this aggregation and that the mechanism controlling its formation, maintenance, and dissolution is complex and rooted in the sharks' variable response to numerous confounding environmental factors.

California↗

Probabilistic patterns of inundation and biogeomorphic changes due to sea-level rise along the northeastern U.S. Atlantic coast

Context Coastal landscapes evolve in response to sea-level rise (SLR) through a variety of geologic processes and ecological feedbacks. When the SLR rate surpasses the rate at which these processes build elevation and drive lateral migration, inundation is likely. Objectives To examine the role of land cover diversity and composition in landscape response to SLR across the northeastern United States. Methods Using an existing probabilistic framework, we quantify the probability of inundation, a measure of vulnerability, under different SLR scenarios on the coastal landscape. Resistant areas—wherein a dynamic response is anticipated—are defined as unlikely (p < 0.33) to inundate. Results are assessed regionally for different land cover types and at 26 sites representing varying levels of land cover diversity. Results Modeling results suggest that by the 2050s, 44% of low-lying, habitable land in the region is unlikely to inundate, further declining to 36% by the 2080s. In addition to a decrease in SLR resistance with time, these results show an increasing uncertainty that the coastal landscape will continue to evolve in response to SLR as it has in the past. We also find that resistance to SLR is correlated with land cover composition, wherein sites containing land cover types adaptable to SLR impacts show greater potential to undergo biogeomorphic state shifts rather than inundating with time. Conclusions Our findings support other studies that have highlighted the importance of ecological composition and diversity in stabilizing the physical landscape and suggest that flexible planning strategies, such as adaptive management, are particularly well suited for SLR preparation in diverse coastal settings.

Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New H↗

Relative contributions of water-level components to extreme water levels along the US Southeast Atlantic Coast from a regional-scale water-level hindcast

A 38-year hindcast water level product is developed for the U.S. Southeast Atlantic coastline from the entrance of Chesapeake Bay to the southeast tip of Florida. The water level modelling framework utilized in this study combines a global-scale hydrodynamic model (Global Tide and Surge Model, GTSM-ERA5), a novel ensemble-based tide model, a parameterized wave setup model, and statistical corrections applied to improve modelled water level components. Corrected water level data are found to be skillful, with an RMSE of 13 cm, when compared to observed water level measurement at tide gauge locations. The largest errors in the hindcast are location-based and typically found in the tidal component of the model. Extreme water levels across the region are driven by compound events, in this case referring to combined surge, tide, and wave forcing. However, the relative importance of water level components varies spatially, such that tides are found to be more important in the center of the study region, non-tidal residual water levels to the north, and wave setup in the north and south. Hurricanes drive the most extreme water level events within the study area, but non-hurricane events define the low to mid-level recurrence interval water level events. This study presents a robust analysis of the complex oceanographic factors that drive coastal flood events. This dataset will support a variety of critical coastal research goals including research related to coastal hazards, landscape change, and community risk assessments.

Florida, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, ↗

Biomass, production and woody detritus in an old coast redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) forest

We examined aboveground biomass dynamics, aboveground net primary production (ANPP), and woody detritus input in an old Sequoia sempervirens stand over a three-decade period. Our estimates of aboveground biomass ranged from 3300 to 5800 Mg ha-1. Stem biomass estimates ranged from 3000 to 5200 Mg ha-1. Stem biomass declined 7% over the study interval. Biomass dynamics were patchy, with marked declines in recent tree-fall patches <0.05 ha in size. Larger tree-fall patches approaching 0.2 ha in size were observed outside the study plot. Our estimates of ANPP ranged from 6 to 14 Mg ha -1yr-1. Estimates of 7 to 10 Mg ha-1yr -1 were considered to be relatively accurate. Thus, our estimates based on long-term data corroborated the findings of earlier short-term studies. ANPP of old, pure stands of Sequoia was not above average for temperate forests. Even though production was potentially high on a per stem basis, it was moderate at the stand level. We obtained values of 797 m3 ha -1 and 262 Mg ha-1 for coarse woody detritus volume and mass, respectively. Fine woody detritus volume and mass were estimated at 16 m3 ha-1 and 5 Mg ha-1, respectively. Standing dead trees (or snags) comprised 7% of the total coarse detritus volume and 8% of the total mass. Coarse detritus input averaged 5.7 to 6.9 Mg ha -1yr-1. Assuming steady-state input and pool of coarse detritus, we obtained a decay rate constant of 0.022 to 0.026. The old-growth stand of Sequoia studied had extremely high biomass, but ANPP was moderate and the amount of woody detritus was not exceptionally large. Biomass accretion and loss were not rapid in this stand partly because of the slow population dynamics and low canopy turnover rate of Sequoia at the old-growth stage. Nomenclature: Hickman (1993). ?? Springer 2005.

Plant Ecology↗

Eocene and miocene rocks off the northeastern coast of the United States

A grab sample from a depth of 1675 m at a point south of Cape Cod contains early Eocene planktonic Foraminifera and is correlated with the Globorotalia rex zone of Trinidad. The assemblage indicates a depth comparable to that existing today. Regional relations suggest that the Cretaceous and Eocene deposits deepen to the west toward New Jersey. Two mollusk-bearing blocks dredged from the northern side of Georges Bank are correlative with the Miocene Yorktown Formation. Rocks from two other stations are probably Miocene. Benthonic Foraminifera in one sample indicate deposition in cool temperate waters of less than 60 m depth.

Massachusetts↗

Rapid dune changes associated with overwash processes on the deltaic coast of South Louisiana

The Caminada-Moreau barrier headland of South Louisiana is a low-profile beach and dune coastline that is transgressing rapidly over the surfaces of the abandoned Lafourche delta complex. With the passage of cold fronts (10–30 times per year) and hurricanes (once every 4 yrs), overwash events occur year round with varying degrees of frequency, intensity and geomorphological modification. This coastline consists of washover and dune surfaces that respond rapidly to overwash impact. The fine sand stored in washover deposits is easily reworked by aeolian processes into a variety of dune forms in the shore-zone that are vegetated rapidly. Geomorphological changes vary according to the position, ground elevation, and surface stability of the dunes. Independent factors are overwash surge elevations, beach gradient and the presence of pre-existing landforms. For ten years detailed surveys supplemented by aerial photographs and videotape surveys have recorded these changes. The analysis of these information sources provides insight into both the general evolution of this distinctive coastline and also the geomorphological interaction of dunes, beaches and washover deposits in different physiographic settings.

Marine Geology↗

Heavy-mineral reconnaissance off the coast of the Apalachicola river delta, northwest Florida: A summary and new interpretations

Two-hundred-and-fifty sediment samples were collected for heavy-mineral and textural analysis along the northwest Florida coastline from approximately 24 km offshore of Apalachee Bay to the same distance offshore of Pensacola Bay. The heavy-mineral suite characterizing sediments within this region consists of opaque minerals, kyanite, staurolite, tourmaline, zircon and rutile. Minor constituents of this suite include epidote, sphene, amphibole, sillimanite, garnet and leucoxene. The average heavy-mineral concentration within these sediments is approximately 0.12 wt.%. Specifically, the 2 to 3∅ grain-size interval contains an average of 0.51 wt.%, whereas the 3 to 4∅ interval contains an average of 4.39 wt.% heavy minerals. Note that the 3 to 4∅ interval typically represents only 4% of the sample volume. There is a general westward increase in heavy-mineral concentrations throughout the study area. Superimposed on this regional trend, areas of maximum heavy-mineral concentration occur within sediments offshore of St. George and Santa Rosa islands. The primary source of sediments in the region is the crystalline rocks of the southern Appalachians. Granulometric analyses of these sediments reveal a westward increase in values of sample mean grain size, and decrease in standard deviation, and percent fines. It is postulated from these data, in addition to the interpretation of sample grain-size distributions, skewness, and kurtosis, that these inner continental shelf sediments are primarily fluvial in origin. These sediments have been transported to the shelf by the Apalachicola and surrounding major rivers during Pleistocene low sea-level stands. Data also indicate evidence of reworking by coastal or marine offshore wave processes.

Marine Geology↗

Formation of the Shelf-edge Cretaceous-Tertiary contact off the southeastern U.S. Coast

Submarine erosion, associated with changes in position of the proto-Gulf Stream, was the dominant mechanism controlling the formation of the Cretaceous-Tertiary unconformity in AMCOR borehole 6004. Paleontologic evidence indicates that this unconformity, which is marked by a gravelly-sand enriched in glauconitic and phosphoritic concretions, represents a hiatus of about 7 m.y. Both Cretaceous and Paleocene sediments contain middle-outer neritic foraminiferal assemblages that become more diverse with distance from the contact. Of the elemental abundances measured, Al, Ba, Co, Fe, Ga, K, Mg/Ca, Mo, Ni, P, Sr/Ca, V, Y, and Zn show a strong positive correlation with proximity to the contact, probably as a result of the concentration of authigenic and heavy minerals present as lag sediments on the erosion surface.

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina↗

Late Pleistocene and Holocene paleoenvironments of the North Pacific coast

Unlike the North Atlantic, the North Pacific Ocean probably remained free of sea ice during the last glacial maximum (LGM), 22,000 to 17,000 BP. Following a eustatic low in sea level of ca. −120 m at 19,000 BP, a marine transgression had flooded the Bering and Chukchi shelves by 10,000 BP. Post-glacial sea-level history varied widely in other parts of the North Pacific coastline according to the magnitude and timing of local tectonism and glacio-isostatic rebound. Glaciers covered much of the continental shelf between the Alaska Peninsula and British Columbia during the LGM. Maximum glacier extent during the LGM was out of phase between southern Alaska and southern British Columbia with northern glaciers reaching their outer limits earlier, between 23,000 and 16,000 BP, compared to 15,000–14,000 BP in the south. Glacier retreat was also time-transgressive, with glaciers retreating from the continental shelf of southern Alaska before 16,000 BP but not until 14,000–13,000 BP in southwestern British Columbia. Major climatic transitions occurred in the North Pacific at 24,000–22,000, 15,000–13,000 and 11,000–9000 BP. Rapid climate changes occurred within these intervals, including a possible Younger Dryas episode. An interval of climate warmer and drier than today occurred in the early Holocene. Cooler and wetter conditions accompanied widespread Neoglaciation, beginning in some mountain ranges as early as the middle Holocene, but reaching full development after 3000 BP.

Quaternary Science Reviews↗

Sediment movement along the U.S. east coast continental shelf-II. Modelling suspended sediment concentration and transport rate during storms

Long-term near-bottom wave and current observations and a one-dimensional sediment transport model are used to calculate the concentration and transport of sediment during winter storms at 60-80 m water depth along the southern flank of Georges Bank and in the Mid-Atlantic Bight. Calculations are presented for five stations, separated by more than 600 km alongshelf, that have different bottom sediment texture, bedforms and current conditions. A modified version of the sediment transport model presented by Grant and Glenn (1983, Technical Report to the American Gas Association), Glenn (1983, D.Sc. Thesis, M.I.T.), and Glenn and Grant (1987, Journal of Geophysical Research, 92, 8244-8264) is used to examine the influence of wave-current interaction, sediment stratification, and limitations on the erodibility of the bottom sediments on the concentration of sediment in the water column and on transport. Predicted suspended sediment concentrations are higher than observed, based on beam transmissometer measurements, unless an erosion limit of order a few millimeters for sediments finer than 94 ??m is imposed. The agreement between predicted and measured beam attenuation is better at stations that have significant amounts of silt plus clay in the surficial sediments than for stations with sandy sediments. Sediment concentrations during storms estimated by Moody et al. (1987, Continental Shelf Research, 7, 609-628) are within 50% of the model predictions. Sediment transport rates for sediments 94 ??m and finer are determined largely by the concentrations in the surficial sediment and the erosion depth limit. Large alongshelf transports in the direction of storm-driven currents are inferred for stations in the Mid-Atlantic Bight. During a 115-day period in winter 1979-1980, the net transport of sediment along the shelf was westward; benthic storms (defined as periods when the bottom wave stress exceeded the current stress by 2 dyn cm-2) occurred between 23 and 73% of the time, and greater than 91% of the net alongshelf transport was during storms. ?? 1990.

Georges Bank, Mid-Atlantic Bight↗

Fate of injected CO2 in the Wilcox Group, Louisiana, Gulf Coast Basin: Chemical and isotopic tracers of microbial–brine–rock–CO2 interactions

The &ldquo;2800&rsquo; sandstone&rdquo; of the Olla oil field is an oil and gas-producing reservoir in a coal-bearing interval of the Paleocene&ndash;Eocene Wilcox Group in north-central Louisiana, USA. In the 1980s, this producing unit was flooded with CO 2 in an enhanced oil recovery (EOR) project, leaving &sim;30% of the injected CO 2 in the 2800&rsquo; sandstone post-injection. This study utilizes isotopic and geochemical tracers from co-produced natural gas, oil and brine to determine the fate of the injected CO 2 , including the possibility of enhanced microbial conversion of CO 2 to CH 4 via methanogenesis. Stable carbon isotopes of CO 2 , CH 4 and DIC, together with mol% CO 2 show that 4 out of 17 wells sampled in the 2800&rsquo; sandstone are still producing injected CO 2 . The dominant fate of the injected CO 2 appears to be dissolution in formation fluids and gas-phase trapping. There is some isotopic and geochemical evidence for enhanced microbial methanogenesis in 2 samples; however, the CO 2 spread unevenly throughout the reservoir, and thus cannot explain the elevated indicators for methanogenesis observed across the entire field. Vertical migration out of the target 2800&rsquo; sandstone reservoir is also apparent in 3 samples located stratigraphically above the target sand. Reservoirs comparable to the 2800&rsquo; sandstone, located along a 90-km transect, were also sampled to investigate regional trends in gas composition, brine chemistry and microbial activity. Microbial methane, likely sourced from biodegradation of organic substrates within the formation, was found in all oil fields sampled, while indicators of methanogenesis (e.g. high alkalinity, &delta; 13 C-CO 2 and &delta; 13 C-DIC values) and oxidation of propane were greatest in the Olla Field, likely due to its more ideal environmental conditions (i.e. suitable range of pH, temperature, salinity, sulfate and iron concentrations).

Louisiana↗

Anticoagulant rodenticides in Strix owls indicate widespread exposure in west coast forests

Exposure of nontarget wildlife to anticoagulant rodenticides (AR) is a global conservation concern typically centered around urban or agricultural areas. Recently, however, the illegal use of ARs in remote forests of California, USA, has exposed sensitive predators, including the federally threatened northern spotted owl ( Strix occidentalis caurina ). We used congeneric barred owls ( S. varia ) as a sentinel species to investigate whether ARs pose a threat to spotted owls and other old-forest wildlife in northern regions of the Pacific Northwest. We analyzed the liver tissue from 40 barred owls collected in Oregon and Washington and confirmed exposure to ≥1 AR compounds in 48% of the owls examined. Brodifacoum, an extremely toxic second-generation AR, was the most common compound detected (89% of positive cases), followed by bromadiolone (11%), difethialone (11%), and warfarin (5%). Brodifacoum was also detected in one barred owl and one spotted owl opportunistically found dead (liver concentrations were 0.091 and 0.049 µg/g, respectively). We found no evidence that exposure varied with proximity to developed and agricultural areas, or among different study areas, age-classes, and sexes. Rather, exposure was ubiquitous, and the rates we observed in our study (38 – 64%) were similar to or greater than that reported previously for barred owls in California (40%). Together these studies indicate widespread contamination in forested landscapes used by spotted owls and other wildlife of conservation concern. Owls collected in older forests may have been exposed via illegal use of ARs, highlighting a mounting challenge for land managers and policy makers.

California↗

Pore characteristics of Wilcox Group Coal, U.S. Gulf Coast Region: Implications for the occurrence of coalbed gas

Pore characteristics of 27 subbituminous coal samples (16 mesh splits) from the Paleocene–Eocene Wilcox Group of north Louisiana (Ouachita and Caldwell Parishes) and south Texas (Zavala County) were examined in relation to desorbed gas content. Coal gas of the Wilcox Group is primarily biogenic in origin; thermogenic gas also may be present in some areas. On an as-received basis, desorbed gas contents range from 0.59 to 1.28 m 3 /t for Ouachita Parish samples, 0.37 to 5.19 m 3 /t for the Caldwell Parish samples, and 0.02 to 0.06 m 3 /t for the Zavala County samples. For Louisiana coal samples, micropore surface area and volume are correlated to the desorbed gas content of the Wilcox Group coal (correlations: r = 0.50 and 0.47, respectively), suggesting that micropore surface area and volume are important in terms of gas-holding capacity. Adsorption by micropores appears to be the primary form of gas storage for the Louisiana coal samples. Micropore surface area and volumes also are strongly correlated with the carbon/ash yield ratio (r = 0.97 and 0.94, respectively), indicating that gas sorption occurs primarily on organic matter. Mineral matter appears to reduce the sorption capacity of the coal. Micropore width decreases with depth (r = − 0.63), probably as the result of increasing pressure and coal rank with depth. For the Louisiana coal samples, mesopore surface area is negatively correlated with the carbon/ash yield ratio (r = − 0.70), suggesting that mesopores are preferentially associated with mineral matter. Average mesopore size is correlated with desorbed gas (r = 0.80) for the relatively shallow Ouachita Parish samples (average depth = 441 m, 1446 ft); these results suggest that the permeability of the Wilcox coal is greater in the shallow stratigraphic intervals compared to deeper intervals. Additionally, mesopore size decreases with depth (r = − 0.80). For Ouachita Parish coal samples, negative correlations of gas with mesopore surface area (r = − 0.74) and mesopore volume (r = − 0.56) strongly suggest that gas is not adsorbed in mesopores, and that free gas may be present in larger mesopores, macropores, or fractures of the Wilcox coal. Results also suggest that moisture in Ouachita Parish samples is present in mesopores; moisture in mesopores may have blocked gas adsorption. The low-gas south Texas samples (average depth = 313 m, 1026 ft) are markedly different from the Louisiana samples. Specifically, micropore surface area and micropore volume are negatively correlated with desorbed gas for the Texas samples (r =− 0.21 and − 0.36, respectively). Geologic or environmental conditions probably were not conducive to the generation or storage of microbial gas in the Zavala County coals. The geologic settings (i.e., salinity of formation water, groundwater recharge, permeability of coal) of each study area are important factors that need to be considered in relation to the potential for generation or storage of microbial gas. In south Texas, tectonic stress may have led to a reduction in permeability in the Wilcox Group coal, creating an unfavorable environment for the generation or preservation of microbial gas. The subbituminous rank of the Zavala coals is also too low for significant thermogenic gas generation to have occurred.

Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas↗

Modelling multi-hazard hurricane damages on an urbanized coast with a Bayesian Network approach

Hurricane flood impacts to residential buildings in coastal zones are caused by a number of hazards, such as inundation, overflow currents, erosion, and wave attack. However, traditional hurricane damage models typically make use of stage-damage functions, where the stage is related to flooding depth only. Moreover, these models are deterministic and do not consider the large amount of uncertainty associated with both the processes themselves and with the predictions. This uncertainty becomes increasingly important when multiple hazards (flooding, wave attack, erosion, etc.) are considered simultaneously. This paper focusses on establishing relationships between observed damage and multiple hazard indicators in order to make better probabilistic predictions. The concept consists of (1) determining Local Hazard Indicators (LHIs) from a hindcasted storm with use of a nearshore morphodynamic model, XBeach, and (2) coupling these LHIs and building characteristics to the observed damages. We chose a Bayesian Network approach in order to make this coupling and used the LHIs ‘Inundation depth’, ‘Flow velocity’, ‘Wave attack’, and ‘Scour depth’ to represent flooding, current, wave impacts, and erosion related hazards. The coupled hazard model was tested against four thousand damage observations from a case site at the Rockaway Peninsula, NY, that was impacted by Hurricane Sandy in late October, 2012. The model was able to accurately distinguish ‘Minor damage’ from all other outcomes 95% of the time and could distinguish areas that were affected by the storm, but not severely damaged, 68% of the time. For the most heavily damaged buildings (‘Major Damage’ and ‘Destroyed’), projections of the expected damage underestimated the observed damage. The model demonstrated that including multiple hazards doubled the prediction skill, with Log-Likelihood Ratio test (a measure of improved accuracy and reduction in uncertainty) scores between 0.02 and 0.17 when only one hazard is considered and a score of 0.37 when multiple hazards are considered simultaneously. The LHIs with the most predictive skill were ‘Inundation depth’ and ‘Wave attack’. The Bayesian Network approach has several advantages over the market-standard stage-damage functions: the predictive capacity of multiple indicators can be combined; probabilistic predictions can be obtained, which include uncertainty; and quantitative as well as descriptive information can be used simultaneously.

Coastal Engineering↗

The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts

The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, “XB-SB”) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, “XB-NH”) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Field observations on water levels, wave heights, and wave runup were used to drive and evaluate both models, which were subsequently used to determine the effect of sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components. Results show that specifically modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. XB-SB has a bias of −0.108 – 0.057 m and scatter index of 0.083–0.639, whereas XB-NH has bias of −0.132 – 0.055 m and 0.122–0.490, respectively. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4–5 times less computational effort.

Roi-Namur Island↗