Hurricane wave energy dissipation and wave-driven currents over a fringing reef
In 2018, two successive tropical cyclones, Hurricane Hector and Hurricane Lane, generated waves that impacted the Hawaiian Islands. This study investigates wave breaking over a broad fringing reef and aims to quantify the magnitudes and length scales of the corresponding wave-driven circulation using detailed field observations and numerical models corresponding to these wave events. Detailed wave and current measurements were collected across a 1200-m wide cross-reef transect off the coral reef-lined south coast of Moloka’i, Hawai’i. High-resolution numerical model grids were developed to resolve reef features and the coupled Delft3D-SWAN modeling system was applied to simulate spectral wave transformation and wave-driven currents for these two energetic ocean wave events generated by distant passing hurricanes. The results indicate that the wave-driven circulation is generally weak, with current speeds typically less than 0.15 m/s for the wave conditions generated by Hurricane Lane, with significant wave heights up to 1.9 m. Higher energy dissipation rates from larger waves up to 2.5 m breaking during Hurricane Hector resulted in stronger observed currents up to approximately 0.3 m/s. However, the model results show that these currents are confined to the wave-breaking region over the upper fore reef in a narrow (100–300 m) region near the reef crest, and weaker flows of less than 0.1 m/s are generated over the shallow and wide reef flat. Wave heights across the reef flat are less than 0.5 m and are controlled by the tidal water levels. The coral reef structures therefore provide significant protection for the coastline even during large wave and variable sea level conditions. Climate change is likely to increase sea level and storm intensity, the combination of which will influence wave transmission over fringing reefs that may degrade habitat, fueling the need for further research on changing conditions on coral reef-lined coasts.