Geology topics

Marcan Graffin

Publications and source records attributed to Marcan Graffin.

4 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2026

Climate-driven waterline variability along the North American West Coast

Sandy coasts are highly dynamic environments shaped by a myriad of hydro-sedimentary processes operating across various spatio-temporal scales. From seasonal to centennial timescales, sandy beach dynamics are strongly influenced by climate variability expressed in various forms, including seasonal cycles, climate modes (e.g., El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO)), and global warming. Satellite-based methods enable the observation of coastlines with unprecedented spatial and temporal coverage. However, over the past decade, as these methods have matured, coastal change studies have predominantly focused on long-term trends rather than on climate-driven cycles of shoreline change. In this study, we utilize a large dataset of monthly-sampled time series of waterline positions along the Pacific Coast of the United States and Baja California, Mexico. From these time series, we derived information on long-term trends and seasonal cycles of waterline change. Our analysis reveals clear contrasts in seasonal patterns of waterline variability across the study area, with greater amplitudes observed at higher latitudes. A shift in the dominant dynamics is evident in Southern Baja California, where shoreline variability is more influenced by intertropical dynamics and sea-level anomalies than by wave energy modulation, which dominates further north. ENSO is found to induce contrasting responses of the waterline along the study area. During El Niño events, shoreline retreat is observed in subtropical regions, while La Niña winters drive waterline retreat in higher latitudes, with southern regions either remaining stable or advancing.

Baja California, California, Oregon, Washington↗

USGS2026

ENSO and PDO drive shoreline position anomalies in the U.S. Pacific Northwest

Sandy beaches act as buffers against various coastal hazards but are vulnerable to episodic (seasonal) and chronic (interannual) erosion. Understanding the variation of shoreline position, a key metric in coastal morphology, over a spectrum of time scales is therefore crucial in assessing hazard vulnerability. Long-standing research has investigated the role of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), the dominant mode of climate variability in the Pacific Basin, in seasonal shoreline variability. Yet, ENSO’s chronic influence—and that of another Pacific climate mode, the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO)—on shoreline anomalies remains poorly understood. Here, we examine the variability of sandy beaches in the US Pacific Northwest, a ∼750 km long coastal region on the US West Coast. We leverage 40 years (1984–2024) of shoreline data from publicly available Earth-observing (Landsat) satellite imagery at a high spatial resolution (>10,000 shore-normal transects at 50-m alongshore spacing) and employ Convergent Cross Mapping (CCM), a methodology for inferring causality in dynamical systems. We discover that strong El Niño years are signified by erosion (75.1% of transects), and strong La Niña years exhibit accretional behavior (73.4% of transects). Furthermore, we establish, for the first time, that both ENSO and PDO exert a statistically significant control on interannual shoreline variability, particularly on the alongshore component (in 95 and 100% of littoral cells, respectively), with water level fluctuations playing a critical role. This effort advances our understanding of the seasonal-to-interannual interactions between Pacific Basin climate variability and the PNW’s coastal morphodynamics, with implications for sediment management and coastal adaptation.

California, Oregon, Washington↗

USGS2025

Waterline responses to climate forcing along the North American West Coast

Understanding waterline variability at seasonal to interannual timescales is crucial for predicting coastal responses to climate forcing. However, relationships between large-scale climate variability and coastal morphodynamics remain underexplored beyond intensively monitored sites. This study leverages a newly developed 25-year (1997–2022) satellite-derived waterline dataset along the North American West Coast. Our results reveal distinct latitudinal patterns in seasonal waterline change, with excursions exceeding 25 m in the Pacific Northwest, decreasing to less than 10 m in Southern California and farther south. Waterline fluctuations strongly follow wave power in the Pacific Northwest ( R = −0.78), northern California ( R = −0.75), and Baja California ( R = −0.62), while Baja California Sur aligns more with sea-level variations ( R = −0.42). Interannually, waterline change exhibits latitudinal dependence: south of southern California, variability is low, with major erosion confined to strong El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events, while northern regions show mixed responses. ENSO-driven storm track shifts modulate winter wave climate, resulting in enhanced (attenuated) erosion from southern California to Baja California Sur during El Niño (La Niña). However, further north, ENSO impacts are less consistent, reflecting a complex interplay of storm track displacement and intensification. These findings highlight the spatial complexity of ENSO-driven morphodynamics and provide a framework for assessing climate-induced coastal vulnerability.

North American West Coast↗

USGS2023

Monitoring interdecadal coastal change along dissipative beaches via satellite imagery at regional scale

Coastal morphological changes can be assessed using shoreline position observations from space. However, satellite-derived waterline (SDW) and shoreline (SDS; SDW corrected for hydrodynamic contributions and outliers) detection methods are subject to several sources of uncertainty and inaccuracy. We extracted high-spatiotemporal-resolution (~50 m-monthly) time series of mean high water shoreline position along the Columbia River Littoral Cell (CRLC), located on the US Pacific Northwest coast, from Landsat missions (1984–2021). We examined the accuracy of the SDS time series along the mesotidal, mildly sloping, high-energy wave climate and dissipative beaches of the CRLC by validating them against 20 years of quarterly in situ beach elevation profiles. We found that the accuracy of the SDS time series heavily depends on the capability to identify and remove outliers and correct the biases stemming from tides and wave runup. However, we show that only correcting the SDW data for outliers is sufficient to accurately measure shoreline change trends along the CRLC. Ultimately, the SDS change trends show strong agreement with in situ data, facilitating the spatiotemporal analysis of coastal change and highlighting an overall accretion signal along the CRLC during the past four decades.

Oregon, Washington↗