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Jeffrey H. List

Publications and source records attributed to Jeffrey H. List.

40 records · Page 3Linked to original sources
USGS1993

Breakpoint-forced and bound long waves in the nearshore: A model comparison

A finite-difference model is used to compare long wave amplitudes arising from two-group forced generation mechanisms in the nearshore: long waves generated at a time-varying breakpoint and the shallow-water extension of the bound long wave. Plane beach results demonstrate that the strong frequency selection in the outgoing wave predicted by the breakpoint-forcing mechanism may not be observable in field data due to this wave's relatively small size and its predicted phase relation with the bound wave. Over a bar/trough nearshore, it is shown that a strong frequency selection in shoreline amplitudes is not a unique result of the time-varying breakpoint model, but a general result of the interaction between topography and any broad-banded forcing of nearshore long waves.

Conference Paper↗
USGS1991

Wave groupiness variations in the nearshore

This paper proposes a new definition of the groupiness factor, GF , based on the envelope of the incident-wave time series. It is shown that an envelope-based GF has several important advantages over the SIWEH-based groupiness factor, including objective criteria for determining the accuracy of the envelope function and well-defined numerical limits. Using this new GF , the variability of incident wave groupiness in the field is examined both temporally, in unbroken waves at a fixed location, and spatially, in a cross-shore array through the surf zone. Contrary to previous studies using the SIWEH-based GF , results suggest that incident wave groupiness may not be an independent parameter in unbroken waves; through a wide range of spectral shapes, from swell to storm waves, the groupiness did not vary significantly. As expected, the groupiness decreases rapidly as waves break through the surf zone, although significant wave height variability persists even through a saturated surf zone. The source of this inner surf zone groupiness is not identified; however, this observation implies that models of long wave generation must account for nonsteady radiation stress gradients landward of some narrow zone near the mean breakpoint.

Coastal Engineering↗
USGS1991

Large-scale coastal evolution of Louisiana's barrier islands

The prediction of large-scale coastal change is an extremely important, but distant goal. Here we describe some of our initial efforts in this direction, using historical bathymetric information along a 150 km reach of the rapidly evolving barrier island coast of Louisiana. Preliminary results suggest that the relative sea level rise rate, though extremely high in the area, has played a secondary role in coastal erosion over the last 100 years, with longshore transport of sand-sized sediment being the primary cause. Prediction of future conditions is hampered by a general lack of erosion processes understanding; however, an examination of the changing volumes of sand stored in a large ebb-tidal delta system suggests a continued high rate of shoreline retreat driven by the longshore re-distribution of sand.

Conference Paper↗