Geology topics

David K. Ralston

Publications and source records attributed to David K. Ralston.

12 recordsLinked to original sources

USGS2026

Storm surge barriers reduce seaward sediment supply to lagoonal estuaries

Numerical simulations with realistic forcing of fixed infrastructure for a proposed storm surge barrier for a lagoonal estuary, Jamaica Bay (New York, USA), are analyzed during typical forcing conditions to assess alterations to flow and sediment transport with the barrier open. Lagoonal estuaries are shallow and have modest watershed freshwater and sediment inputs, so sediment delivery is primarily from offshore by tidal transport. The storm surge barrier infrastructure across the inlet channel reduces cross-sectional area and increases tidal velocities, increasing frictional and form drag. The overall reduction in tidal amplitude is about 1%, but the quarterdiurnal M 4 component decreases by 11%. The salinity and stratification in the estuary are only slightly modified by mixing by stronger velocities near the barrier. Sediment transport in the inlet scales approximately with tidal velocity cubed and net landward transport is driven by flood-dominant tidal asymmetry. Additionally, tidal asymmetry in the jet flow through barrier openings causes a divergence in sediment transport within several kilometers. The alterations to the tidal currents reduce sediment import to the bay by 20% for fine sand; transport of sediment with slower settling velocities is less affected, with reductions of 3% for medium silt and <1% for fine silt. The study examined tidal exchange with an open barrier, but the overall impact also depends on barrier operations during major storm events. The impacts of barrier infrastructure on lagoonal estuaries are distinct from other estuary types due to their modest freshwater input, predominance of tidal transport, and offshore sediment supply.

New York↗

USGS2026

Spatial heterogeneity of salt marsh vulnerability to sea-level rise: Dual controls of hydrological setting and salinity regime

Salt marsh vulnerability to sea-level rise (SLR) is typically assessed using point measurements of vertical accretion, neglecting three-dimensionality of geomorphic evolution and spatial variability. Recent studies suggest links between vertical and horizontal vulnerability, with differences between oligohaline and polyhaline marshes, yet these relationships remain untested in estuary-marsh systems. Here we combine geospatial analysis with hydrodynamic modeling to evaluate how unvegetated/vegetated marsh ratio (UVVR), a metric of marsh degradation, relates to elevation across hydrological regions and salinity regimes in the Albemarle-Pamlico Estuarine System, the largest lagoonal estuary in U.S. We show that at given normalized elevation, UVVR decreases across hydrological regions and salinity regimes from offshore to inland. UVVR-elevation relationship varies systematically with both hydrological setting and salinity regime, with hydrology exerting stronger influence. These findings challenge the assumption of a universal marsh deterioration trajectory and underscore the need to account for spatial heterogeneity when predicting responses to SLR.

North Carolina↗

USGS2026

Compounding of 100-year coastal floods by rainfall in an urban environment

Coastal and pluvial flooding are both becoming more prevalent and severe due to climate change and urbanization in floodplains. The co-occurrence of these flood drivers is generally assumed to exacerbate the resulting flood impacts, a result referred to as compound flooding. However, few observational or modeling studies have investigated the circumstances under which this occurs. Here, we study the impacts of these combined flood drivers and evaluate the implicit hypothesis of official flood maps, which is that rainfall has a negligible impact on the flood depth and flooded area due to a 100 year coastal flood. A coastal system model, configured to capture coastal and pluvial flood drivers, is used. We evaluate the flooding for different urban landform types, including coastal landfill (human-made land), convergent areas (topographic depressions) and other urban terrain, within a model domain covering the Jamaica Bay watershed of New York City. A scenario-based strategy is adopted with a 100 year coastal flood as a control simulation, to which we add a set of realistic scenarios of rainfall data from historical tropical cyclones. We also apply a joint probability analysis framework with historical data to evaluate the probability of these compound coastal-pluvial scenarios. Results reveal cases where the pluvial driver compounds the coastal flood through expansion of the flood zone, with a 17% chance of rainfall increasing the flood area by 6%–38%, and a 5% chance of an increase of 61%–73%. It is rare that floods are significantly deepened but when deepening occurs, it is more common for the convergent zone than for the coastal landfill. These findings quantitatively assess the potential of the pluvial driver to exacerbate flooding, which may influence emergency management strategies such as evacuation plans, shelter arrangements, and related preparedness measures.

New York↗

USGS2025

Wind pumping dominates landward salt transport in a weakly tidal estuary

In tidally energetic estuaries, salinity dynamics vary with tidal forcing as well as factors such as river discharge and bathymetry. However, in weakly tidal estuaries, mechanisms governing salt transport remain poorly understood. Here, we investigate salt transport processes in a weakly tidal estuary, Albemarle Sound on the U.S. East Coast, using a deterministic numerical model. In 2022, the volume averaged salinity of Albemarle Sound ranged from ∼2 to 10 psu. Although seasonal river discharge typically induces gradual salinity changes of less than 1 psu per month, four wind events caused sharp salinity increases of 1–2 psu within just a few days. We find that wind pumping, defined as the net salt transport due to temporal correlations between velocity and salinity associated with wind events, is the dominant mechanism contributing to these episodic increases in volume averaged salinity. In Albemarle Sound, wind pumping operates on timescales of several days, which is longer than the tidal timescale, and occurs intermittently throughout the year rather than following a regular repetitive pattern. Our analysis suggests that salt transport by wind pumping is typically an order of magnitude larger than by gravitational circulation and serves as the primary mechanism balancing salt loss from river flow. Isolating wind pumping requires averaging over variability of multiple days, longer than typical tidal averaging. Wind pumping likely also controls material exchange with coastal ocean, influencing biogeochemical processes in the estuary. This mechanism may be important in other systems with similar characteristics, particularly in coastal lagoons with multiple subembayments.

North Carolina↗

USGS2025

Pluvial and potential compound flooding in a coupled coastal modeling framework: New York City during post-tropical Cyclone Ida (2021)

Many coastal urban areas are prone to extreme pluvial flooding due to limitations in stormwater system capacity, with the additional potential for flooding compounded by storm surge, tides, and waves. Understanding and simulating these processes can improve prediction and flood risk management. Here, we adapt the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport modeling framework (COAWST) to simulate pluvial flooding from post-tropical Cyclone Ida (2021) in the Jamaica Bay watershed of New York City (NYC). We modify the model to capture the volumetric effects of rainfall and parameterize soil infiltration and a stormwater conveyance system as the drainage rate. We generate a spatially continuous flood map of Ida with a root-mean-square error (RMSE) of 20 cm when compared to high-water marks, useful for understanding Ida's impacts and subsequent mitigation planning. Results show that over 23 km 2 and 4621 buildings were flooded deeper than 0.3 m during Ida. Sensitivity analyses are used to study the broader risk from events like Ida (pluvial flooding) as well as potential compound (pluvial–coastal) flooding. Spatial shifting of the storm track within a typical 12 h forecast uncertainty reveals a worst-case scenario that increases this flooded area to 62 km 2 (5907 buildings). Shifting Ida's rainfall to coincide with high tide increases this flooded area by 1 km 2 , a relatively small change due to the lack of significant storm surge. The application of COAWST to this storm event addresses a broader goal of developing the capability to model compound pluvial–coastal flooding by simultaneously representing coastal storm processes such as rain, tide, waves, erosion, and atmosphere–wave–ocean interactions. The sensitivity analysis results underscore the need for detailed flood risk assessments, showing that Ida, already NYC's worst rain event, could have been even more devastating with slight shifts in the storm track.

New York↗

USGS2024

Vegetation-generated turbulence does not impact the erosion of natural cohesive sediment

Previous studies have demonstrated that vegetation-generated turbulence can enhance erosion rate and reduce the velocity threshold for erosion of non-cohesive sediment. This study considered whether vegetation-generated turbulence had a similar influence on natural cohesive sediment. Cores were collected from a black mangrove forest with aboveground biomass and exposed to stepwise increases in velocity. Erosion was recorded through suspended sediment concentration. For the same velocity, cores with pneumatophores had elevated turbulent kinetic energy compared to bare cores without pneumatophores. However, the vegetation-generated turbulence did not increase bed stress or the rate of resuspension, relative to bare cores. It was hypothesized that the short time-scale fluctuations associated with vegetation-generated turbulence were not of sufficient duration to break cohesion between grains, explaining why elevated levels of turbulence associated with the pneumatophores had no impact on the erosion threshold or rate.

Louisiana↗

USGS2023

Increased utilization of storm surge barriers: A research agenda on estuary impacts

Rising coastal flood risk and recent disasters are driving interest in the construction of gated storm surge barriers worldwide, with current studies recommending barriers for at least 11 estuaries in the United States alone. Surge barriers partially block estuary-ocean exchange with infrastructure across an estuary or its inlet and include gated areas that are closed only during flood events. They can alter the stratification and salt intrusion, change sedimentary systems, and curtail animal migration and ecosystem connectivity, with impacts growing larger with increasing gate closures. Existing barriers are being used with increasing frequency due to sea level rise. New barrier proposals typically come with maximum closure frequency recommendations, yet the future adherence to them is uncertain. Given that the broader environmental effects and coupled-human dynamics of surge barriers are not well-understood, we present an interdisciplinary research agenda for this increasingly prevalent modification to our coastal zone.

Earth's Future↗

USGS2020

Using tracer variance decay to quantify variability of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary

The salinity structure in an estuary is controlled by time‐dependent mixing processes. However, the locations and temporal variability of where significant mixing occurs is not well‐understood. Here we utilize a tracer variance approach to demonstrate the spatial and temporal structure of salinity mixing in the Hudson River Estuary. We run a 4‐month hydrodynamic simulation of the tides, currents, and salinity that captures the spring‐neap tidal variability as well as wind‐driven and freshwater flow events. On a spring‐neap time scale, salinity variance dissipation (mixing) occurs predominantly during the transition from neap to spring tides. On a tidal time scale, 60% of the salinity variance dissipation occurs during ebb tides and 40% during flood tides. Spatially, mixing during ebbs occurs primarily where lateral bottom salinity fronts intersect the bed at the transition from the main channel to adjacent shoals. During ebbs, these lateral fronts form seaward of constrictions located at multiple locations along the estuary. During floods, mixing is generated by a shear layer elevated in the water column at the top of the mixed bottom boundary layer, where variations in the along channel density gradients locally enhance the baroclinic pressure gradient leading to stronger vertical shear and more mixing. For both ebb and flood, the mixing occurs at the location of overlap of strong vertical stratification and eddy diffusivity, not at the maximum of either of those quantities. This understanding lends a new insight to the spatial and time dependence of the estuarine salinity structure.

Hudson River↗

USGS2020

Sediment budget estimates for a highly impacted embayment with extensive wetland loss

External sediment supply is an important control on wetland morphology and vulnerability to storms, sea-level rise, and land use change. Constraining sediment supply and net budgets is difficult due to multiple timescales of variability in hydrodynamic forcing and suspended-sediment concentrations, as well as the fundamental limitations of measurement and modeling technologies. We used two independent observational campaigns and one hydrodynamic modeling effort to estimate the sediment supply to Jamaica Bay, New York, USA, an urbanized embayment with a history of extensive wetland loss. We found that all three estimates indicate a net import to the system, ranging from 36 x 106 – 74 x 106 kg/y, with a mean estimate of 55,000 t/y +/- 31,000 t/y, which compares well with a prior estimate derived from radionuclide tracers. Net sediment import is controlled by flood-ebb asymmetry in bed shear stress, which results in higher suspended sediment concentrations on flood tide relative to ebb. This indicates a seaward source of sediment, likely offshore marine deposits and potentially sediment from the adjacent Hudson River-Estuary that is resuspended by waves in the coastal ocean. Despite the net sediment import, a simple sediment budget suggests that the rate of supply is not sufficient to maintain the present geomorphic planform of the system relative to sea-level rise. The convergent estimates from independent methods provide reasonable guidance as context for sediment-based restoration efforts.

New York↗

USGS2015

Progress and challenges in coupled hydrodynamic-ecological estuarine modeling

Numerical modeling has emerged over the last several decades as a widely accepted tool for investigations in environmental sciences. In estuarine research, hydrodynamic and ecological models have moved along parallel tracks with regard to complexity, refinement, computational power, and incorporation of uncertainty. Coupled hydrodynamic-ecological models have been used to assess ecosystem processes and interactions, simulate future scenarios, and evaluate remedial actions in response to eutrophication, habitat loss, and freshwater diversion. The need to couple hydrodynamic and ecological models to address research and management questions is clear because dynamic feedbacks between biotic and physical processes are critical interactions within ecosystems. In this review, we present historical and modern perspectives on estuarine hydrodynamic and ecological modeling, consider model limitations, and address aspects of model linkage, skill assessment, and complexity. We discuss the balance between spatial and temporal resolution and present examples using different spatiotemporal scales. Finally, we recommend future lines of inquiry, approaches to balance complexity and uncertainty, and model transparency and utility. It is idealistic to think we can pursue a “theory of everything” for estuarine models, but recent advances suggest that models for both scientific investigations and management applications will continue to improve in terms of realism, precision, and accuracy.

Estuaries and Coasts↗

USGS2012

Bathymetric controls on sediment transport in the Hudson River estuary: Lateral asymmetry and frontal trapping

Analyses of field observations and numerical model results have identified that sediment transport in the Hudson River estuary is laterally segregated between channel and shoals, features frontal trapping at multiple locations along the estuary, and varies significantly over the spring-neap tidal cycle. Lateral gradients in depth, and therefore baroclinic pressure gradient and stratification, control the lateral distribution of sediment transport. Within the saline estuary, sediment fluxes are strongly landward in the channel and seaward on the shoals. At multiple locations, bottom salinity fronts form at bathymetric transitions in width or depth. Sediment convergences near the fronts create local maxima in suspended-sediment concentration and deposition, providing a general mechanism for creation of secondary estuarine turbidity maxima at bathymetric transitions. The lateral bathymetry also affects the spring-neap cycle of sediment suspension and deposition. In regions with broad, shallow shoals, the shoals are erosional and the channel is depositional during neap tides, with the opposite pattern during spring tides. Narrower, deeper shoals are depositional during neaps and erosional during springs. In each case, the lateral transfer is from regions of higher to lower bed stress, and depends on the elevation of the pycnocline relative to the bed. Collectively, the results indicate that lateral and along-channel gradients in bathymetry and thus stratification, bed stress, and sediment flux lead to an unsteady, heterogeneous distribution of sediment transport and trapping along the estuary rather than trapping solely at a turbidity maximum at the limit of the salinity intrusion.

Journal of Geophysical Research↗

USGS2010

Sediment transport and deposition on a river-dominated tidal flat: An idealized model study

A 3-D hydrodynamic model is used to investigate how different size classes of river-derived sediment are transported, exported and trapped on an idealized, river-dominated tidal flat. The model is composed of a river channel flanked by sloping tidal flats, a configuration motivated by the intertidal region of the Skagit River mouth in Washington State, United States. It is forced by mixed tides and a pulse of freshwater and sediment with various settling velocities. In this system, the river not only influences stratification but also contributes a significant cross-shore transport. As a result, the bottom stress is strongly ebb-dominated in the channel because of the seaward advance of strong river flow as the tidal flats drain during ebbs. Sediment deposition patterns and mass budgets are sensitive to settling velocity. The lateral sediment spreading scales with an advective distance (settling time multiplied by lateral flow speed), thereby confining the fast settling sediment classes in the channel. Residual sediment transport is landward on the flats, because of settling lag, but is strongly seaward in the channel. The seaward transport mainly occurs during big ebbs and is controlled by a length scale ratio L d / X WL , where L d is a cross-shore advective distance (settling time multiplied by river outlet velocity), and X WL is the immersed cross-shore length of the intertidal zone. Sediment trapping requires L d / X WL < 1, leading to more trapping for the faster settling classes. Sensitivity studies show that including stratification and reducing tidal range both favor sediment trapping, whereas varying channel geometries and asymmetry of tides has relatively small impacts. Implications of the modeling results on the south Skagit intertidal region are discussed.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗