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D.A. Cacchione

Publications and source records attributed to D.A. Cacchione.

At least 19 recordsLinked to original sources

Liquefaction potential of the Yukon Prodelta, Bering Sea

The Yukon prodelta is exposed to large storm waves propagating northward from the southern Bering Sea. Shallow water depths of the prodelta enhance the transfer of energy from the surface waves to the bottom. As the bottom deposits are cyclically loaded by large storm waves, potential decrease in their resistance to shear could ultimately cause liquefaction. A preliminary assessment of the engineering properties of Yukon sandy silt suggests that the prodelta deposits may be susceptible to wave induced liquefaction during severe storm events. In addition, erosion and are suspension of sediment in the prodelta may be intensified because of the liquefaction process.

Conference Paper↗

Shear stress and bed roughness estimates for combined wave and current flows over a rippled bed

High‐quality bottom boundary layer measurements and bottom photographs were obtained over a sand substrate during a 10‐day deployment of the GEOPROBE tripod at an inner shelf (35‐m water depth) location off northern California. The seafloor surrounding the tripod was composed of well‐sorted medium‐grained (mean diameter, 0.25 mm) sand which was formed into symmetrical wave ripples with heights of 3–4 cm and wavelengths of 22–30 cm. Mean velocity profiles in the region from 23 cm to 102 cm above the rippled bed were highly logarithmic ( R > 0.95) approximately 30% of the time. Nineteen profiles exhibiting R > 0.997 were analyzed to obtain the shear velocity ( U * c ) and roughness length (Z 0 c ) for the mean current. The near‐bottom flow field was composed of quasi‐steady currents (up to 12 cm s −1 at z = 102 cm) and wave‐induced, oscillatory currents (up to 14 cm s −1 ). The data‐derived estimates of U * c and Z 0 c were 0.3–0.93 cm s −1 and 0.82–1.5 cm, respectively. The mean shear estimates are 50–100% larger than those predicted using a drag coefficient ( C D ) of 3 × 10 −3 that is typical for rough boundaries, and the roughness lengths are up to an order of magnitude larger than the maximum expected values based on the observed wave‐rippled bottom. These results indicate the importance of the combined flow turbulent interaction in producing a large apparent Z 0 c . However, comparison of the shear and roughness estimates derived from the velocity profile analysis to predictions made by the combined flow model of Grant and Madsen (1979) show that direct application of the wave‐ripple roughness equation of Grant and Madsen (1982) yields large overestimates of z 0 c and U * c . Selecting the physical roughness length k b (=30 z 0 ) that produced the best agreement with the data resulted in z 0 values ranging from 0.03 to 0.43 cm. Moreover, a direct correlation exists between these physical roughness estimates and the angle (θ cr ) formed by the mean current and the trend of the wave ripple crests. A simple linear relationship between k b and θ cr is suggested by our limited data set.

California↗

The M2 tide on the Amazon Shelf

As part of A Multidisciplinary Amazon Shelf Sediment Study (AMASSEDS), moored and shipboard current measurements made over the Amazon shelf during 1990–1991 have been analyzed to determine the dominant semidiurnal tidal constituent, the M 2 . These results have been combined with coastal sea level data from within the Amazon and Para Rivers, the adjacent shelf, and with satellite‐derived tidal elevation data from off the shelf to provide a more complete description of the M 2 tide in this complex river/shelf system. Near the Amazon River mouth the M 2 tide propagates across the shelf and through the mouth as a damped progressive wave, with its amplitude decreasing and phase increasing upriver. Over the adjacent shelf north of Cabo Norte, the M 2 tide approaches a damped standing wave, with large amplitudes (greater than 1.5 m) near the coast due to near resonance within the coastal embayment formed by the Cabo Norte shoal to the south and Cabo Cassipore to the north. The observed M 2 tidal currents are nearly rectilinear and oriented primarily across the local isobaths. Comparisons between tidal observations in both the North Channel and the Cabo Norte‐Cabo Cassipore embayment and a simple variable‐width channel tidal model indicate that (1) most of the M 2 tidal energy dissipation occurs over the mid‐ and inner shelf (in water depths less than 20 m) and (2) fluid muds found there cause a significant reduction (of order 50%) in the effective bottom friction felt by the M 2 tide. The approximate resonant period of the Cabo Norte‐Cabo Cassipore embayment is 11.9 hours, and at resonance the average energy dissipation per forcing period is roughly 2.2 times the average mechanical energy in the embayment. This damping rate is large enough that the tidal amplification is rather insensitive to forcing frequency, so that the response of the embayment to forcing over the semidiurnal band should be essentially the same. The vertical structure of the M 2 tidal current is examined at one outer shelf site located in 65‐m water depth. The observed semimajor axis increases logarithmically with height above bottom within the lowest 1–2 m and reaches a maximum in excess of 0.5 m/s at approximately 11 m above bottom. The mean ellipticity is small (less than 0.1) and positive, indicating clockwise rotation of a nearly rectilinear current, and the semimajor axis is oriented within 10° of the local cross‐isobath direction. The M 2 phase increases with height above bottom, with flood at the bottom leading flood at the surface by about 1 hour. A simple, local homogeneous tidal model with time‐ and space‐dependent eddy viscosity simulates the observed near‐bottom velocity reasonably well, however, the model suggests that stratification above the lowest few meters may significantly affect the tidal boundary layer structure at this site. The M 2 energy flux onto the Amazon shelf and into the Amazon and Para Rivers has been estimated using current and surface elevation data and the best fit variable‐width channel model results. The net M 2 energy flux into the mouths of the Amazon and Para Rivers is 0.47×10 10 W and 0.19×10 10 W, respectively. A net M 2 energy flux of about 3.3×10 10 W occurs onto the shelf between the North Channel of the Amazon River and Cabo Cassipore. This stretch of the Amazon shelf accounts for about 1.3% of the global dissipation of the M 2 tide.

Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans↗

Morphology and growth history of Delgada Fan: Implications for the Neogene evolution of Point Arena Basin and the Mendocino Triple Junction

Long-range side scan (GLORIA) sonographs and seismic reflection data acquired during a survey of the western U.S. Exclusive Economic Zone in 1984, coupled with information from Deep Sea Drilling Project sites, provide new insights into the growth and evolution of the Delgada Fan. Construction of the fan commenced in the latest Miocene (∼6 Ma) following the filling of the Neogene Point Arena Basin. The fan presently covers more than 50×10 3 km 2 of the Pacific plate and contains approximately 15×10 3 km 3 of predominantly terrigenous detritus. The large size of the fan is incompatible with the small present-day supply of sediment to the canyon system. The GLORIA data show the Delgada Fan to be a hybrid-type fan, exhibiting characteristics of both elongate and radial fans. The morphology and volume of the fan, along with evidence for a decline in accumulation rates on the lower fan during the Quaternary period, suggest that the fan experienced an early growth phase (latest Miocene and Pliocene) characterized by relatively rapid progradation of elongate fan lobes followed by a period (Quaternary) of slower growth that has featured a shift of depocenters to sites closer to the canyons and a transition to distributary channels bordered by less prominent levees and overbank deposits. We examine the growth of Delgada Fan in relation to the Neogene evolution of the North American-Pacific plate boundary using a series of paleogeographic reconstructions based on recently published time displacement histories of the Mendocino triple junction (MTJ), the San Andreas fault (SAF), and the Pacific plate, upon which the fan rests. The time displacement curves for the SAF and the MTJ suggest that the MTJ and Mendocino Fracture Zone overtook and passed Point Arena Basin at about 10 Ma when the basin lay immediately southwest of the present San Francisco Bay area. We suggest that the MTJ joined the SAF at approximately that time and location, thus making the SAF the master fault in the transform system. This interpretation is compatible with evidence from seismic reflection profiles over the fan, which demonstrate that the fan and the canyon system and therefore Point Arena Basin have moved as a unit since the inception of fan growth (∼6–7 Ma). Point Arena Basin lay southwest of the San Francisco area at 10–12 Ma, and the passage of the MTJ caused the disruption of the forearc shelf and slope and the development of local uplifted and subsiding blocks. In particular, uplift of the “bay block” immediately east of the SAF may have provided the source area for the late Miocene sediments that filled Point Arena Basin and set the stage for the growth of Delgada Canyon and Fan system. The growth rate of the fan has decreased, and the style of deposition has changed as the system was tectonically transported to its present location adjacent to the small youthful drainages of the King Range.

Journal of Geophysical Research Solid Earth↗

Measurements of storm-generated bottom stresses on the continental shelf

Large values of bottom friction velocity, u *, and roughness length, z 0 , determined from burst-averaged speed data taken on the continental shelf in outer Norton Sound, Alaska, with the GEOPROBE tripod during a storm in September 1977 are correlated with extremely large values of near-bottom concentration of total suspended particulate matter (TSM). Combined wind-driven and tidal currents exceeding 30 cm/s at 1 m above the bottom and intense oscillatory bottom currents with maxima above 45 cm/s were associated with the largest measured values of TSM at 2 m above the sea floor. The values of u * and z 0 obtained from the ‘law of the wall’ velocity-depth relationship are diminished substantially throughout the storm period (average reduction of 44%) when the turbulence reducing effects of the vertical concentration gradient of TSM are considered. The form of the latter correction was adapted from Smith and McLean (1977 a ). Values of the mean u * computed from the theory of Grant and Madsen (1979), which predicts an enhanced shear stress due to nonlinear wave-current interactions, compare favorably with the u * values determined from the measured velocity profiles. The measured values of z 0 , however, are considerably larger than any of the estimates based on (1) the actual scales of the physical roughness elements; (2) the apparent roughness of Grant and Madsen (1979); or (3) the thickness of the bed-load layer as formulated by Smith and McLean (1977 a ).

Journal of Geophysical Research - Oceans↗

Storm‐dominated bottom boundary layer dynamics on the Northern California Continental Shelf: Measurements and predictions

Measurements of near‐bottom velocity profiles in 85 m water depth during a storm on the continental shelf off northern California using the GEOPROBE tripod in December 1979 provided estimates of shear velocities, , and roughness lengths, , when the near‐bottom velocity profiles were logarithmic. These estimates agree within 90% confidence intervals with values computed from a simple near‐bottom combined wave‐current model that includes movable bed effects. The reasonably good comparison between model and profile estimates of suggests that such models can be used to predict bed shear stresses (or shear velocities) under combined flows of waves and currents typical of stormy conditions on continental shelves if stratification corrections to the velocity profile resulting from suspended sediment are small. The repeated occurrences of storms of similar intensities and wind velocities during the winter months off northern California suggest that the resultant high bottom stresses due to the combined effects of waves and currents are major factors in controlling the distribution of surficial sediment on the central portion of the northern California shelf.

California↗

Coastal ocean dynamics

The main objective of the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment (CODE) is to observe and describe the response of continental shelf waters to strong atmospheric forcing in a relatively simple geomorphological setting. In order to achieve this goal, CODE has been designed (1) to define the different space and time scales of the physical parameters important to the shelf flow field and (2) to identify and describe the essential kinematical and dynamical processes governing wind‐driven circulation on the continental shelf. A variety of models exist for the wind‐forced response of continental shelf waters. The salient differences among these models lies in the assumed balances between terms in the governing equations. For example, Gill and Schumann [1974] in a barotropic model assume a geostrophic cross‐shelf momentum balance but include the time‐dependent and surface and bottom stress terms in the along‐shelf momentum balance. Csanady [1978] in his arrested topographic wave model involving bottom friction assumes a quasisteady alongshelf response neglecting advective terms and retaining the geostrophic cross‐shelf balance. Various shelf wave models assume inviscid dynamics and other models assume a simple balance between surface and bottom stress in shallow water. To test the different assumptions behind these models, all terms in the governing equations need to be accurately estimated.

California↗

GLORIA II sonograph mosaic of the western U.S. Exclusive Economic Zone

In 1983 the United States declared sovereign rights and jurisdiction over living and nonliving resources in an area extending 200 nautical miles (370 km) seaward from its shores. In response to the establishment of this Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ), the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) has implemented a program, called EEZ‐Scan, to systematically map the EEZ, using the Geological Long‐ Range Inclined ASDIC (GLORIA) II longrange side scan sonar system developed by the Institute of Oceanographic Sciences (IOS) of Great Britain [Somers et al, 1978]. The first part of the EEZ‐Scan field program was completed in the summer of 1984, when USGS and IOS scientists surveyed the EEZ off the western conterminous United States aboard the British research vessel Farnella (Figure 1). The west coast survey, requiring 96 days of ship time and four separate legs, has resulted in virtually total sonograph coverage of the sea floor from the continental shelf break to the 200‐nautical mile limit between the Mexican and Canadian borders, an area of about 850,000 km 2 . Other data collected on the cruises included two‐channel digital seismic reflection and 3.5‐kHz highresolution and 10‐kHz bathymetric profiles, as well as towed magnetometer data along approximately 20,000 km of trackline spaced nominally at 30‐km intervals.

Western U.S. Exclusive Economic Zone↗

Time-averaged near-bed suspended sediment concentrations under waves and currents: Comparison of measured and model estimates

Profiles of suspended sediment concentration and velocity were measured over a 15-day period at a near-shore site off Santa Cruz, CA in Monterey Bay. The concentration and velocity data were collected with an Acoustic Backscattering System (ABS) and Acoustic Current Profiler (ACP) that were mounted on a bottom tripod. High-resolution bottom scanning sonar was also attached to the tripod to provide images of bed features during the experiment. Hourly time-averaged near-bed concentrations of suspended sediment were calculated from three models and compared with the measurements. Surface waves and currents that were generated by a storm of moderate intensity caused bed stresses that exceeded threshold stress for D 50 =0.02 cm, the median size of the moderately well-sorted bottom sediment, over a period of about 7 days. Estimates of the concentration at 1 cm above the bottom, C a1 , were obtained using the ABS measurements. These observations have been compared with predictions for the concentration at 1 cm above the bottom, C 1 . Nielsen's models for reference concentration C o [Nielsen, P., 1986. Suspended sediment concentrations under waves. Coastal Engineering 10, 32-31; Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport, Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. World Scientific, Hackensack, NJ.] are purely wave-based and do not include effects of bottom currents on bed stress and bedform scales. C 1 calculated from this model compared well with measured C a1 when currents were weak and small oscillatory ripples were observed in the sonar images. However, during the 3-day period of highest bottom stresses modeled C 1 did not compare well to C a1 . The other two models for C 1 , Glenn and Grant [Glenn, S.M., Grant, W.D., 1987. A suspended sediment stratification correction for combined wave and current flows. Journal of Geophysical Research 92(C8), 8244-8264.] and van Rijn and Walstra [Van Rijn, L.C., Walstra, D.J.R., 2004. Description of TRANSPOR2004 and implementation in Delft3D-ONLINE. Interim Report prepared for DG Rijkswaterstaat, Rijksinstituut voor Kust en Zee. Delft Hydraulics Institute, The Netherlands.], accounted for combined wave-current stresses and included different formulations for predicting bedform scales. C 1 calculated from these models compared well with measurements throughout the early and middle period of the storm, but underpredicted measured values during the latter part of the experiment. An alternative method based on dimensional analysis provided a straightforward way to relate C 1 to bed stress and sediment parameters. This new relationship based on dimensional analysis explained about 77% of the variability in C a1 derived from the ABS data.

California↗

A comparison of near-bed acoustic backscatter and laser diffraction measurements of suspended sediments

As part of the U.S. Office of Naval Research (ONR, Arlington, VA) mine burial program, an experiment was conducted off the pier at Santa Cruz, CA, to measure the near-bed suspended sediment reference concentration under waves and currents. Two tripods were deployed to carry out the measurements; one consisting mainly of acoustical instrumentation and the other solely of optical instruments. The tripods were located within 15 m of one another on a sandy bed and measurements of the suspended sediment were made using acoustics and optics. Although the experiment was not primarily designed to conduct an intercomparison of acoustical and optical measurements, it was considered interesting to take advantage of the situation and to examine if these two techniques gave comparable results. In particular, measurements of particle size and concentration, obtained using a triple frequency acoustic backscatter system (ABS) have been compared with the commercially available laser miniature scattering and transmissometry instrument (MSCAT). It was found that the mean grain size estimated by the two methods was consistent; however, in contrast, the concentration time series showed differences, both in magnitude and form.

IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering↗

Bottom instrumented tripods: History, applications, and impacts

Instrumented bottom tripods have provided important data on sediment transport processes on continental shelves and in estuaries for four decades. Since the initial deployment in a tidal channel in Puget Sound, WA, in 1965 numerous tripods have been constructed to investigate bottom boundary layer and sediment dynamics worldwide. Tripod data have led to new understanding of near-bottom wave and current flows in the coastal ocean, and have been crucial to the development of shelf circulation and sediment transport models. Calculations of bottom stress, bottom roughness, and sediment flux that resulted directly from tripod data have been compared to bottom boundary layer model results. Where these have differed, new or revised model components have been developed to improve the skill of the models. The many discoveries that have been made from tripod experiments include dense, near-bottom fluid mud layers that transport large quantities of suspended sediment offshore into deeper regions of the continental shelf. This process has been linked to the seaward progradation of subaqueous deltas and to the boundaries of mid-shelf mud deposits off rivers with high fine-sediment discharge.

Continental Shelf Research↗

The shaping of continental slopes by internal tides

The angles of energy propagation of semidiurnal internal tides may determine the average gradient of continental slopes in ocean basins (???2 to 4 degrees). Intensification of near-bottom water velocities and bottom shear stresses caused by reflection of semi-diurnal internal tides affects sedimentation patterns and bottom gradients, as indicated by recent studies of continental slopes off northern California and New Jersey. Estimates of bottom shear velocities caused by semi-diurnal internal tides are high enough to inhibit deposition of fine-grained sediment onto the slopes.

Science↗

Observations of storm and river flood-driven sediment transport on the northern California continental shelf

In the winter of 1996-1997, three bottom-boundary layer tripods were placed in an alongshelf array on the northern California continental shelf off Eureka, CA in 60-65-m water depth. During the observation period, multiple storms and river discharge events occurred, as well as the largest flood on record since 1964. Suspended-sediment concentration at all three sites fluctuated in response to both wave resuspension and advection of river-derived sediments. However, considerable spatial differences in low-frequency currents and suspended-sediment concentration were observed at the three sites. Sediment flux vectors calculated during periods of high suspended-sediment concentration suggest a convergence of sediment flux coincident with the center of recent flood deposits. Suspended-sediment concentrations observed at the two northern tripod sites following the large flood reached magnitudes typical of fluid mud (> 10 g/l) in a thin near-bed layer. The net sediment flux during the single three-day event was two orders of magnitude larger than any other event during the winter, and accounted for seven times the flux observed over an entire year (1995-1996). A conceptual model for the advection of sediment to the mid shelf is proposed in which river plume sediments are trapped on the inner shelf either due to a weak front or the rapid input of sediment from a confined plume, and form a thin layer of fluid mud. The fluid mud subsequently is transported seaward due to gravitational forcing. The measured sediment concentration and velocity profiles on the shelf provide strong evidence to support this conclusion. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science Ltd.

Continental Shelf Research↗

Estimates of suspended-sediment flux and bedform activity on the inner portion of the Eel continental shelf

Energetic waves, strong bottom currents, and relatively high rates of sediment discharge from the Eel River combined to produce large amounts of suspended-sediment transport on the inner continental shelf near the Eel River during the winter of 1995-1996. Bottom-boundary-layer (BBL) measurements at a depth of ~50 m using the GEOPROBE tripod showed that the strongest near-bottom flows (combined wave and current speeds of over 1 m/s) and highest sediment concentrations (exceeding 2 g/l at ~1.2 m above the bed) occurred during two storms, one in December 1995 and the other in February 1996. Discharge from the Eel River during these storms was estimated at between 2 and 4 x 103 m3/s. Suspended-sediment flux (SSF) was measured 1.2 m above the bed and calculated throughout the BBL, by applying the tripod data to a shelf sediment-transport model. These results showed initially northward along-shelf SSF during the storms, followed by abrupt and persistent southward reversals. Along-shelf flux was more pronounced during and after the December storm than in February. Across-shelf SSF over the entire measurement period was decidedly seaward. This seaward transport could be responsible for surficial deposits of recent sediment on the outer shelf and upper continental slope in this region. Sediment ripples and larger bedforms were observed in the very fine to fine sand at 50-m depth using a sector-scanning sonar mounted on the tripod. Ripple wavelengths estimated from the sonar images were about 9 cm, which compared favorably with photographs of the bottom taken with a camera mounted on the tripod. The ripple patterns were stable during periods of low combined wave-current bottom stresses, but changed significantly during high-stress events, such as the February storm. Two different sonic altimeters recorded changes in bed elevation of 10 to 20 cm during the periods of measurement. These changes are thought to have been caused principally by the migration of low-amplitude, long-wavelength sand waves into the measurement area.

Marine Geology↗

Water velocities and the potential for the movement of bed sediments in Sinclair Inlet of Puget Sound, Washington

Sinclair Inlet is a small embayment of Puget Sound in the State of Washington. The inlet, about 6.5 kilometers long and 1.5 kilometers wide, is the site of Puget Sound Naval Shipyard. There are concerns that bed sediments in the inlet may have been contaminated as a result of activities at the shipyard, and that these sediments could be resuspended by tide- and wind-driven currents and transported within the inlet or out of the inlet to other parts of Puget Sound. This study was conducted to provide information concerning the potential for sediment resuspension in the inlet. To obtain the necessary data, vertical profiles of water current from about 2 meters above the bed to 2 meters below the water surface were monitored with acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) at three locations during a 6.5-week winter period and a 4.5-week summer period in 1994. In addition, during the winter period, water velocites between 0.19 and 1.20 meters above the bed were measured with current meters using an instrument package called Geoprobe, which was deployed near one of the ADCPs. Other instruments on the Geoprobe measured light transmissivity, and a camera periodically took photographs of the bottom. Instruments on the Geoprobe and on the ADCPs also measured conductivity (for determining salinity), temperature, and pressure (for determinining tide). Samples of bed sediment and water samples for determining suspended-sediment concentration were collected at each of the current-measurement stations. Wind speed and direction were measured at three stations during a 12-month period, and tide was measured at one of these stations. Water currents measured at the three locations in Sinclair Inlet were relatively weak. Typical speeds were 5 to 10 centimeters per second, and the RMS (root-mean-square) speeds were less than 8 centimeters per second. Tidal and residual currents were of similar magnitude. Residual currents near the bottom typically were flowing in the opposite direction of the prevailing wind, while surface currents were in the same direction as the prevailing wind. During most of the year, the prevailing wind was from the soutwest quadrant; however, during July and August, the prevailing wind was usually from the northeast quadrant. The RMS of the total shear velocity for each ADCP station and measurement period, which was estimated from observed profiles of current velocity, ranged from 0.31 centimeters per second to 0.44 centimeters per second. The skin-friction component of the shear velocity was estimated to be no more than half the total. Critical shear velocity, estimated from particle sizes and density of the bed material, was 0.39 centimeters per second or larger. Comparisons of the skin-friction components of total bottom shear velocities with estimates of the critical shear velocity necessary for resuspension of the bed sediments indicate that resuspension occurs only infrequently, usually at times of maximum current during the tidal cycle. This conclusion is supported by measurements near the bed of light transmissivity, which is related to suspended-sediment concentration.

Washington↗

Flow and suspended particulate transport in a tidal bottom layer, south San Francisco Bay, California

Field investigations of the hydrodynamics and the resuspension and transport of particulate matter in a bottom boundary layer were carried out in South San Francisco Bay, California during March-April 1995. The GEOPROBE, an instrumented bottom tripod, and broad-band acousti Doppler current profilers were used in this investigation. The instrument assemblage provided detailed measurements of 1) turbulent mean velocity distribution within 1.5 m of sediment-w interface; 2) characteristics of 3-D tidal current in the water column; 3) friction velocity u* or bottom shear stress and bottom roughness length zo; 4) hydrodynamic conditions conducive for s resuspension; and 5) circulation patterns which are responsible for transporting suspended particulate matter in South San Francisco Bay. An unusual flow event was recorded by the instruments during March 8-11, 1995. A 3-D numerical model was implemented which re qualitatively, the unusual observations and supported the hypothesis that the unusual flow event caused by a combination of wind driven circulation and weak neap tides.

California↗

Observations of sediment transport on the Amazon subaqueous delta

A 19-day time series of fluid, flow, and suspended-sediment characteristics in the benthic boundary layer is analyzed to identify major sedimentary processes active over the prodelta region of the Amazon subaqueous delta. Measurements were made by the benthic tripod GEOPROBE placed on the seabed in 65 m depth near the base of the deltaic foreset beds from 11 February to 3 March 1990, during the time of rising water and maximum sediment discharge of the Amazon River; and the observations included: hourly measurements of velocity and suspended-sediment concentration at four levels above the seabed; waves and tides; and seabed elevation. Results of the first 14-day period of the time series record indicate that sediment resuspension occurred as a result of tidal currents (91% of the time) and surface gravity waves (46% of the time). Observations of suspended sediment indicated that particle flux in this region is 0.4–2% of the flux measured on the adjacent topset deposits and is directed to the north and landward relative to the Brazilian coast (268°T). Fortnightly variability is strong, with particle fluxes during spring tides five times greater than during neap tides. On the 15th day of the data record, a rapid sedimentation event was documented in which 44 cm of sediment was deposited at the study site over a 14-h period. Evaluation of various mechanisms of mass sediment movement suggests that this event represents downslope migration of fluid muds from the upper foreset beds that were set in motion by boundary shear stresses generated by waves and currents. This transport mechanism appears to occur episodically and may represent a major source of sediment to the lower foreset-bottomset region of the subaqueous delta.

Continental Shelf Research↗

Linking sediment transport and stratigraphy on the continental shelf

The goal of the shelf sediment dynamics component of STRATAFORM is to link sediment transport processes active on the continental shelf to the formation and preservation of event beds in shelf sediment deposits. An approach combining shelf sediment-transport models with high-resolution measurements of water-column and bed properties over periods from several months to several years allows us to make quantitative estimates of bed modification caused by sediment resuspension during episodic transport events. These modifications include erosion and deposition of bed material, formation of graded storm beds, and changes in small-scale bed surface morphology. The characteristics of the resulting “event bed” (thickness, grading, physical structures) are a function of flow and bed properties, depending on both temporal and spatial variations in sediment transport.

Oceanography↗